Should I take the curve out of this stave?

[eastcreekarchery]

I don't think this much curve would matter much on a longer stave but this one is 48" long and will be making a bow that length. I'm afraid there will be too much of a twisting force due to the length of the stave. Maybe I'm wrong...

[bjrogg]

Assuming it is following the grain. I would probably get it closer to bow dimensions and then straighten it on my caul with heat. Looks like Osage? Usually straightens nice and holds it’s shape well.
Bjrogg

[George Tsoukalas]

The first thing I do is clamp a string tip to tip and see where it falls on where the handle would be. Then I decide. Jawge

[eastcreekarchery]

Its black locust. Thanks for the advice

[Eric Krewson]

I would take the bend out in a heart beat, I don't like working with dog legs.

[bownarra]

What matters is where the string lies when its braced. Get it to brace height then decide. Leave the handle full width until its braced then simply shape the handle to the strings natural path.

[Pat B]

I agree with bownarra. Also, leave the tips full width until first brace for the same reason.

[eastcreekarchery]

I agree with bownarra. Also, leave the tips full width until first brace for the same reason.

Shouldn't I straighten the stave and follow the grain rather than shaping the bow so that the string goes through the handle?

[simson]

Agree with Pat and Bownarra
If it would be mine: Follow the grain, bring it near dimensions. Some bend at floortiller shows if it has tendency to torque. If so heat correct or steam - BL bends as nicely as osage.

[eastcreekarchery]

If I decide to heat bend the bow, where should I apply the heat? Just on the side that will be under tension during the bending process or the whole area where the bend is happening?

[Yooper Bowyer]

I agree with Pat, Bownarra, and simson. 
Most people are better at heat bending wood than I am, but I think it would be much easier to cut through a little grain on the side than attempt a heat correction.  Also, heat can damage wood as well as crossed grain.  In my experience torque isn't the end of the world on straight bows, you just have to be clever about how you hold them.

[Pat B]

You only want to heat the belly side and only on an unbraced bow, not under tension.

[bjrogg]

I would do it on my Straightening caul (form) . Clamp it down belly side up and start clamping in a straight area. Heat belly with heat gun working your way through the crooked part. Usually you can feel when it gets hot enough. The wood will give up and bend where you want it to. Clamp as you go. I haven’t used  BL but Simson says it bends as nice as Osage so it should work good.

I agree that it can have some curves and twists as long as string passes through middle of handle. Looks like that is just a one way curve though.

Also agree leave tips and handle wide till at least braced. I usually shape my handle late in the tillering process. You can cheat the tips a little one way or the other two.

Try to avoid scorching the back ( tension) side of bow. Heat is bad for tension.

It’s alright to scorch belly side of bow ( the side that’s towards your belly) heat treatments are actually good for compression at least in some woods.

Good Luck.

If you had a scrape piece you could experiment with it first

Bjrogg

[Pat B]

Get this bow to first, low brace with good tiller. That way you can see how the string tracks(only works under tension) and adjust the bow from there. If you can get good string tracking by removing wood from one side or the other of the full width handle area and/or the wide tips you may not have to use heat for straightening. A bows limbs can be tillered without making a finished handle or tips. Those areas are generally static now just like they will be at finish, only less physical weight.

[PatM]

If I decide to heat bend the bow, where should I apply the heat? Just on the side that will be under tension during the bending process or the whole area where the bend is happening?

 It's the side being compressed that needs the most heat.