Author Topic: never floor tillered a reflexed tip flatbow stave before  (Read 491 times)

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Offline Tradslinger

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never floor tillered a reflexed tip flatbow stave before
« on: January 14, 2021, 12:16:52 pm »
This is a 66" roughed out Osage that has been previously reflexed on the tips but is now ready to be floor tillered. It is 1/2" at the tips, 2" wide at the fadeouts. The reflex is the last 8" or so and is about 2" or more in height. I plan to add antler overlays. I just have never tillered anything with a reflex much less reflexed tips. I was told to leave the tips a little thicker. any tricks to do with the long string? I figure that a short long string that isn't tight might be easier to manage. I still haven't cut the nocks yet, was going to do the overlays first.

Offline scp

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Re: never floor tillered a reflexed tip flatbow stave before
« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2021, 02:35:14 pm »
"Reflex" usually refers to the side profile of the working limbs. You are talking about the recurve or recurved tips. 8" is a little long for a static recurve. You need to decide whether you want it to be a static or working one. I basically treat stiff tips as non-working parts of the limbs like fades. As for working recurve tips, I guess you can simply consider them as the more reflexed parts of the working limbs. I just look for nice even curves of all working parts.

Offline Kidder

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Re: never floor tillered a reflexed tip flatbow stave before
« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2021, 04:24:28 pm »
The biggest struggle that I've found working with bows like that is that they have a tendency to want to flip upside down in the tillering rack if not secured (until they are braced). I usually use a leather sling so I can better judge how even the limbs move, but with a bow like that I've found I have to use some sort of cradle that prevents the bow from turning over.

Offline Tradslinger

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Re: never floor tillered a reflexed tip flatbow stave before
« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2021, 04:32:39 am »
I definitely can see how and why the bow might flp over or try to. to make it a static tip, it needs to be thicker at the tip area, correct? Still waiting on my Trad bow builders bible to get in. I figure the only safe wat to string it later is using a stringer. I do appreciate any and all help. a  :BB in the works, Jerry 

Offline bownarra

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Re: never floor tillered a reflexed tip flatbow stave before
« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2021, 12:29:15 pm »
You will be able to stirng it with the push/pull method.
Tight long string on all bows in my opinion.
You can clamp the handle in the vice and pull the limbs end to check floortiller/vicetiller :)
The trick is to get these sort of bows nice and 'limber' or close to final thickness before fighting them too much early on....but that takes experience to eyeball tapers/thickness etc...or luck.
Reflexed bows of any sort will feel heavier than they actually are once strung.

Offline Tradslinger

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Re: never floor tillered a reflexed tip flatbow stave before
« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2021, 01:01:44 pm »
thanks, the vice thing may be a life saver. I figured that the long string needed to be tight just to keep it on ong enough to do anything.  Any advice is better than none at all. I like knowing of various options to work with. so it would best to have a very good floor tiller, meaning a decent bend closer towards a short string than maybe a straighter limb tip

Offline scp

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Re: never floor tillered a reflexed tip flatbow stave before
« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2021, 04:02:24 pm »
Do not pull the bow more than your desired draw weight. Do exercise the bow after any removal of wood. Highly reflexed bows can lose weight suddenly.

Offline Tradslinger

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Re: never floor tillered a reflexed tip flatbow stave before
« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2021, 07:02:13 am »
Do not pull the bow more than your desired draw weight. Do exercise the bow after any removal of wood. Highly reflexed bows can lose weight suddenly.
oh that part I understand no problem