Author Topic: Boo backed Ipe noob questions  (Read 1620 times)

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Offline Maxwelliuston

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Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« on: February 23, 2021, 04:15:06 pm »
Hi all,

Long time lurker, first time poster.  I'm in the planning phase of a boo backed ipe bow.  This will be bow number 7ish for me so I'm still pretty green at this.  Shooting for 60#+ at 28" but I'm more concerned with making a quality bow so weight isn't necessarily a huge priority for me.  I've laid out the bow to be 69" long (nice) tapering from 1" 1/2 at the fades to 1/2" tips (seems uncomfortably narrow imo but what do I know) with generic handle dimensions - 4" handle, 2" fades to 1 1/2" - gonna slap some red oak on there for my riser - not doing an arrow shelf

My questions pertain to achieving r/d or static recurves/flipped tips.  I want some degree of curvaceous intrigue.  The ipe board I'm starting with is 3/4" thick and I'd like to preserve that thickness in the handle section so I don't have to futz with a power lam.  I was planning on using a bandsaw to remove all the excess wood on the belly of the limbs and leaving it full thickness in the handle section and MAYBE attempting kerf joint recurves if I'm feeling froggy or simply doing the generic r/d shape at glue up.

If I were to do kerf joint recurves, when would be the right time to bend? At glue up or afterwards? Do I use dry heat or steam? Is TBIII good for all my glueing and laminating purposes?  Any and all help and recommendations is greatly appreciated.

Offline Del the cat

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    • Derek Hutchison Native Wood Self Bows
Re: Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2021, 04:22:14 pm »
IMO Don't try to be too clever... what you are making isn't far from an English longbow.
Just make up a former with a very gentle inch of deflex and and 2 inches of reflex spread over the whole limbs for when you glue up.
Try and get a fairly even thickness taper on your Ipe before glue up. It won't need much Ipe to make a pretty heavy bow!
Don't mess with any joints.
Del
Health warning, these posts may contain traces of nut.

bownarra

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Re: Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2021, 03:18:47 am »
The only way to bend ipe is to have the lams thin enough for them to conform to the shape of a form. Steam/ dry heat are a complete waste of time.
You would glue the shape in at glue up.
TB111 is perfectly ok to use. It isn't the best glue for your riser block though.
! 1/2" is a bit wide for ipe but good starting dimensions. 1 1/4" is plenty for a 60#'er.

Offline Beba

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Re: Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2021, 08:50:19 am »
I’m with Del and bownarra with 1 exception. Ipe is oily wood so I use system three’s G2 epoxy and degrease the ipe with alcohol. Was surprised at how thin the limbs ended up on 45 and 55# bows.

gutpile

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Re: Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« Reply #4 on: February 24, 2021, 09:36:52 am »
perry reflex .. dean torges hunting the bamboo backed bow ,shows how.. ipe is brutal on your tools.. it doesn't steam or dry heat well at all either.. so leave a little wide at glue up for any alignment issues.. gut

Offline Pat B

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Re: Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« Reply #5 on: February 24, 2021, 10:52:56 am »
...and 1 1/2" might be too wide. 1 3/8" to 1 1/4" might be better.
My first ipe bow was hickory backed and about 62". I made it 1 1/2" wide and when it was tillered out the ipe belly was thinner than the 1/8"  backing. The bow shot fine but looked a bit odd. This bow was glued up with TBIII and I never had a problem with that.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« Reply #6 on: February 24, 2021, 12:20:26 pm »
When I recurve them with the kerfing method, I use Smooth On epoxy and glue the bamboo to the back and the lams in the kerfs all at the same time. No heat needed.
Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline Badger

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Re: Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« Reply #7 on: February 24, 2021, 02:19:50 pm »
...and 1 1/2" might be too wide. 1 3/8" to 1 1/4" might be better.
My first ipe bow was hickory backed and about 62". I made it 1 1/2" wide and when it was tillered out the ipe belly was thinner than the 1/8"  backing. The bow shot fine but looked a bit odd. This bow was glued up with TBIII and I never had a problem with that.

   Pat, I have always used TB3 also but a few years ago found out TB1 original is stronger on ipe. Not sure why but I made the switch and it seemed to work well. Ipe is the only wood that I know of where they recommend TB1.

Offline Maxwelliuston

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Re: Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« Reply #8 on: February 24, 2021, 03:11:53 pm »
...and 1 1/2" might be too wide. 1 3/8" to 1 1/4" might be better.
My first ipe bow was hickory backed and about 62". I made it 1 1/2" wide and when it was tillered out the ipe belly was thinner than the 1/8"  backing. The bow shot fine but looked a bit odd. This bow was glued up with TBIII and I never had a problem with that.

Wow, 1 1/4? These seem like such delicate dimensions, especially in contrast to the bows I've been making. The straight taper from 1 1/2 to 1/2 already seems mighty narrow but I'm excited for the turnout, thanks for the input

Offline PatM

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Re: Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« Reply #9 on: February 24, 2021, 04:52:56 pm »
...and 1 1/2" might be too wide. 1 3/8" to 1 1/4" might be better.
My first ipe bow was hickory backed and about 62". I made it 1 1/2" wide and when it was tillered out the ipe belly was thinner than the 1/8"  backing. The bow shot fine but looked a bit odd. This bow was glued up with TBIII and I never had a problem with that.

Wow, 1 1/4? These seem like such delicate dimensions, especially in contrast to the bows I've been making. The straight taper from 1 1/2 to 1/2 already seems mighty narrow but I'm excited for the turnout, thanks for the input

  I have an Ipe backed with Maple that's less than an inch wide.  An Ipe bow can look more like a fishing rod than a bow.

bownarra

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Re: Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« Reply #10 on: February 25, 2021, 03:23:52 am »
Yes nonne of my elbs with ipe bellies are over 1" wide, that width will do for upto 100# no problem.

Offline mmattockx

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Re: Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« Reply #11 on: February 25, 2021, 11:53:26 am »
I have an Ipe backed with Maple that's less than an inch wide.  An Ipe bow can look more like a fishing rod than a bow.

Pat, how thick are the two lams in a bow like that?


Mark

Offline PatM

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Re: Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« Reply #12 on: February 25, 2021, 03:47:31 pm »
I actually made it about half and half.  1/4 inch for each roughly.

Offline Yooper Bowyer

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Re: Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« Reply #13 on: February 25, 2021, 05:34:39 pm »
I'm surprised Maple will hold together on Ipe, I would think hickory or white oak is necessary.

Offline PatM

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Re: Boo backed Ipe noob questions
« Reply #14 on: February 25, 2021, 05:40:32 pm »
Maple is easily strong enough.