Author Topic: Redbud gull wing question  (Read 1704 times)

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Offline Woody roberts

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Redbud gull wing question
« on: September 06, 2021, 02:48:29 pm »
I’ve started on my redbud stave. It was quite crooked and twisted but with some steam and a heat gun I’ve got it looking like a bow.
However from the center of the handle both limbs go forward about 6”. This is what I interpret as being a gull wing. The only other bow I’ve built like this was a sluggish shooter. Is that a gull wing thing or just that particular bow.

I ask because at this stage I could steam it back straight or even deflex / reflex it.

What do y’all think?

Offline Pat B

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Re: Redbud gull wing question
« Reply #1 on: September 06, 2021, 08:57:06 pm »
Will you post a pic? What do you mean "go forward"? Reflexed?
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Woody roberts

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Re: Redbud gull wing question
« Reply #2 on: September 07, 2021, 12:23:31 am »
Yes, the limbs are reflexed just off the handle. If I am wrong on the term ( gull wing) please let me know.
I’ll try to post pics tomorrow. I don’t have a computer, only an iPad.
I haven’t had much luck posting pics here

Offline Pat B

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Re: Redbud gull wing question
« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2021, 12:38:00 am »
Depending on how the rest of the limb is shaped what you described is a reflexed bow with the limbs bending towards the back. My idea of a gull wing is reflexed off the handle then deflexes through the limb and reflexes again at the tips, aka a 5 curved bow.
 With 6" of reflex in a bow you can over strain the wood just getting it to brace. If it were mine I'd re-steam it and add 3" to 4" of reflex, give it a day or two to rehydrate then temper the belly on the form to set the correction.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Woody roberts

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Re: Redbud gull wing question
« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2021, 12:18:00 pm »
I had the big eye on the reflex. Once I got the tape out the tips are 3-1/4” ahead of the handle. I don’t generally flip the tips until close to brace height when I heat treat. If it doesn’t lose any of this reflex I’ll leave the limbs straight. It’s close to floor tiller now but still at 10% MC so I don’t bend it much.

I tried to post pics but it was a no go

Offline Pat B

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Re: Redbud gull wing question
« Reply #5 on: September 07, 2021, 12:36:58 pm »
10% isn't bad for most bow woods if that is the true M/C all the way through the thickness of the stave. Are you storing this in a hot box or controlled environment?
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Woody roberts

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Re: Redbud gull wing question
« Reply #6 on: September 07, 2021, 12:50:52 pm »
Here in SW Mo all my staves in the barn measure 18% no matter how long they have been cut. Once I rough one into bow shape I bring it in the house where it will drop to about 10/14% in a few days. Since I have a wood stove in winter the MC will drop below 5%. In summer a few days in the car with the windows up seems to do the trick.

I’ve found I get less set if I don’t start bending till I’m close to 6%
Once I heat treat I can no longer read the MC as it will be below 5%

Offline Pat B

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Re: Redbud gull wing question
« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2021, 12:53:29 pm »
For hickory 5% to 6% is perfect but for most other woods that's too dry and the bow can explode. 10% to 11% is good for most other woods.  The 18% would be the equilibrium with the R/H in your area.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Woody roberts

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Re: Redbud gull wing question
« Reply #8 on: September 07, 2021, 01:12:59 pm »
Thanks, I’ll go ahead and start on this one

Offline SDBurntStick

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Re: Redbud gull wing question
« Reply #9 on: September 07, 2021, 10:52:00 pm »
Keep is updated.  I'm really curious how it turns out.  I have a redbud stave drying too.

Offline Woody roberts

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Re: Redbud gull wing question
« Reply #10 on: September 07, 2021, 11:16:56 pm »
I got it to brace height today and short draw shot a few shots. It had taken an inch or less in set. I clamped it back on the caul and heat treated it pretty brown. It browned faster than hickory, more like hackberry. It seems more snappy than hackberry though.
Since I’ve never worked with this wood before I don’t know how thick the limbs should be for best performance. Right now they are about 9/16” on the edge but maybe 5/8” from the crown on the back.

It’s 1-3/4” at the fades and it’s currently too strong for its intended purpose. As always I plan to work very carefully from this point and see where it ends up.

It’s intended purpose is to replace my old Ash fishing bow. The Ash was one of my early bows and I always thought it was likely to break. I rawhide backed it so flying pieces wouldn’t hit me. While it’s made several ticks it hasn’t broke yet. While shooting it recently I noticed it still had reflex in one limb but not the other. It’s time to put it in the corner of shame where it has lots of company.

Goal for the redbud is 62” to the tips, 35/40 lb at 24”

Offline Woody roberts

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Re: Redbud gull wing question
« Reply #11 on: September 08, 2021, 01:16:53 pm »
Been shooting it in and tweaking tiller a little. After a hundred shots thereabouts it’s at 42 lb at 24” and 47 at 26”.
60-3/4” n-n
4” handle with 1-1/2” fades
Thickness at end of fade  11/16”, mid limb 9/16”. Nocks 1/2”
Width at end of fade 1-3/4” mid limb 1-3/8” nocks 1/2”

The wood is pretty plain, may stain it with something.

Offline Woody roberts

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Re: Redbud gull wing question
« Reply #12 on: September 08, 2021, 04:27:33 pm »
Win some. Lose some. About a foot snapped off the top limb this afternoon. A small knot on the back had rotted out and that’s where it started. I didn’t think it was big enough to matter. Evidently it was.
It broke like an unbacked cedar. If I make another ( unlikely ) I’ll back it.