Recurve help!

[Mafort]

Ok so I’m seriously getting annoyed with the streak I’m on with failing to try and recurve Osage orange. I used to be able to do it just fine but now it seems like every time I try it I get splinters lifting up from the belly. It’s driving me nuts! Someone help me out

[Pat B]

Of all the recurves(not reflexed) bows I've made every one splintered on the belly at the curves. So far I've only used dry heat with veg oil so take it with a grain of salt. In every case I ended up using under lays to support the recurves. Depending on how severe the recurves are an extended steaming or boiling should allow the wood to plasticize enough to get a successful bend without splinters.

[gutpile]

same here.. I boil mine 100% if time 1 hour of boil time.. I use a metal band on belly and work fast .. keep metal band as tight as possible during bend.. band needs to cover whole part of curve,, if it slips.. it splinters.. also you can chase a ring  on osage on belly.. but I still use the band.. recurving a hickory this week.. gut

[Mafort]

same here.. I boil mine 100% if time 1 hour of boil time.. I use a metal band on belly and work fast .. keep metal band as tight as possible during bend.. band needs to cover whole part of curve,, if it slips.. it splinters.. also you can chase a ring  on osage on belly.. but I still use the band.. recurving a hickory this week.. gut

What kind of metal band do you use? Like 22 gauge steel banding or something?

[PaSteve]

A few things I've learned from people on this forum. If possible work belly to one ring, make recurve area thin enough so wood doesn't get overstressed and crack, soak overnight & boil 45 mins to an hour, bend as soon as removed from boiling water, and bend in one smooth continuous motion. The next day I go back and set the curves with dry heat. The last 2 bows I've done this way and neither cracked without using a metal band like I've done previously. I also think making the limb as thin as you can get away with also helps.

[gutpile]

sheet metal strip about 26 gauge.. guess that really doesn't matter.. it is about 1 1/2 wide 20" long.. doesnt need to be that long ...just long enough to cover the whole bend and a few inches..I slap it in behind form on belly.. back is already protected and by being a clean back and form.. belly is where splintering happens.. if back crushes.. you didn't boil long enough.. rule of thumb is 15 min per 1/4 of thickness.. I go for an hour regardless.. you have about a 30 second window to get the whole bend done and clamped..but for osage as mentioned .. if you can chase a ring on the curve it is a good idea.. I also get another pot of water boiling to add to the bow pot in case too much steams away, this can be a smaller pot.. should only have to add maybe once during boil time.. don't start your timer till the water is boiling also.. .. burnt a cedar bow once..lesson learned..  gut

[gutpile]

I don't advise setting curves with dry heat day after boiling.. you could cause checks because the wood is hydrated.. and really no need to set curves.. IMO.. they only time I put dry heat to my curves is at least a week after removing from form and it is only to take out any twist or misalignment that is needed.. but hey .. if you can get away with it.. gut

[gutpile]

Oh and even if a ring is chased on osage. I still will use my band too..nothing like a lil insurance.. gut

[Mafort]

You guys are awesome! I’m loving these responses. Now I’ve got to build a recurving jig to get even curves

[simson]

You will get good results when you work down the limbs to near dimensions. Let's say 10 mm thick for osage, round the edges a bit with sandpaper. Steam the limb for about 20 min, then quickly in the caul andpush the bow slowly in the form (not much power needed). All depends on a good setup, with a pot and a alu foil you will not get it hot enough! Build a steamer with an insulated pipe. On my site you will find some examples how I do it.

[Allyn T]

Never done it but I always see clay Hayes just put it in a form and then work it with a heat gun letting the weight of the bow pull it down as he works his way up the limb.

[darinputman]

Always lifted splinters when I used dry heat just never got the hang of it, but have had great luck since I started boiling my tips. Messed up a lot of bows learning though.  I don't chase a ring on the belly but do like to ensure that bend area is within one ring and not in an area that transitions from one ring to another as this usually raises splinters for me. Just finished up a bow that I bent the tip backwards almost clamped it that way but in a half panicked/mad state reversed it bent it and figured it was ruined. As soon as it cooled a bit I set the curves with dry heat as always  and to my surprise seems to be doing fine. 

[Selfbowman]

I do mine with dry heat. Most are not to drastic a recurve.

[Selfbowman]

Pic

[bownarra]

Never done it but I always see clay Hayes just put it in a form and then work it with a heat gun letting the weight of the bow pull it down as he works his way up the limb.

Not advised.