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Do I need to be annealing before hardening?

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Fox:
I usually Normalize 3 times, by heating past critical then letting air cool, then harden in canola oil, then temper.

I got some 1084 and 1075. Can I use this same process or should I anneal too? should I get dry ice for cryo? is the benefits from that minimal with 1084? im finding lots of conflicting info as always on the internet.

Morgan:
No experience with cryo, but I just normalize a few times before hardening a forged blade. It seems to lessen warps and cracks for me. If doing stock removal with good bought steel of a known quality, I don’t normalize, I just go straight to the quench. The steel I buy is annealed soft and hasn’t been heated repeatedly and beat on. I’ve never had any issue doing it that way. A piece of rail clip or leaf spring that you’ve had to beat to death definitely benefits from normalization

Don W:

--- Quote from: Morgan on February 14, 2022, 01:15:29 pm ---No experience with cryo, but I just normalize a few times before hardening a forged blade. It seems to lessen warps and cracks for me. If doing stock removal with good bought steel of a known quality, I don’t normalize, I just go straight to the quench. The steel I buy is annealed soft and hasn’t been heated repeatedly and beat on. I’ve never had any issue doing it that way. A piece of rail clip or leaf spring that you’ve had to beat to death definitely benefits from normalization

--- End quote ---

I do exactly the same.

Fox:
Okay thanks guys

TRiggs:
You can find all the info you need for quench and temper at Alpha Knife Supply just look up the steel your using and it's all there.

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