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Black Walnut arrow footings?

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Muina:
Got the Walnut, it's the most beautiful thing I've ever seen. It'll go absolutely perfectly with the Ash, I reckon if I ever go hunting with them I'll never miss because the animals will be drawn towards them in awe  ;D

Actually, before I go I need a bit of advice about my bandsaw blade... when I cut the slots in the footings the cut is nowhere near smooth, and this is reflected on the arrow by the edges of the footing's taper being wavy.

I've researched resaw blades but is this the sort of thing I need to be looking for? Or do I need a different tooth pattern on the blade?

Thanks

Muina

Hillbilly:
A wider blade would probably help-at least 1/2."

markinengland:
Muina,
Nice to see another Brit posting.
All the walnut I have ever seen including English has had brown heartwood.
Resprcinol works good with Ipe and Extraphen isn't really very expensive.
Using some Ipe dust mixed in with the glue may help hide any rough saw cuts. Is it the course teeth or wobble in the blade that is making the cut rough? There are some good sites on the internet on resawing and setting up a bandsaw to cut straight.
Mark in England

Muina:
Hi Mark,  us Brits are a rare breed on these sites, it's good to know I'm not the only one!   :D

The resorcinol I'm using is called Cascophen Polyproof I think, made by the same people that did Cascomite which English bowyers apparently swore by for decades.

I'm guessing it's the coarse blade that's making the rough cut, although it may be wobble caused by the coarse blade (due to the wide tooth set). I found a book in my dad's bookcase called 'The Bandsaw Book' and it states that the blade the author uses for resawing with a smooth cut is a "carbide-tipped, 2/3 pitch, variable tooth" blade. I went to the only place I know of that might sell those blades but their suppliers don't make them.

If anyone knows of anywhere that sells them it would be so helpful but at the moment I'm looking into the 'Wood Slicer' blade at Highland Woodworking. If anyone's used it, is it as smooth as they say?

I've read that if you rip hardwood veneers with the wood slicer you hardly need to sand it at all, and that's if you're wanting a touch-smooth surface.

Thanks

Muina

Muina:
I finally had the brilliant idea to add a picture of the problem :P



You can clearly see the bumps caused by the tooth set, luckily the resintite glue I'm using is gap filling so they're not really a problem but I'm looking to start selling arrows along with my bows so I can't afford to have this sort of aesthetic defect. I also don't want to invest in a router footing jig unless I absolutely have to simply because they're so expensive and if I can find a way to get that smoothness with a bandsaw it'd be completely obsolete.

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