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Cane methods questioned

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nclonghunter:
I have seen the hardwood inserts for cane arrows that are reduced to a small diameter so it can be inserted into the shaft in what I would call a stair step method. Reducing the diameter in this method looks as if it would greatly weaken the insert "except for a perfect straight on shot" . Any side movement to the shaft would break the insert easily it would seem to me.
I would also suspect that tapering the hardwood insert,(like the end is tapered to glue on a steel practice tip) would be a better insert system than to stair step the insert. Anyone using the stair step insert method or the taper and has had experience with shooting/hunting with it, I would like to know the strengths and weaknesses to it.

I have read were cane arrows are spined then the stiff side is put to the shelf. I also wonder why the stiff side is placed towards the bow rather than the side that spines to match your bow. I have seen a single cane arrow spine from 80# to 50# depending on the side spined. If my bow shoots at 60#, then why would I put the 80# side to the bow? If the arrow must flex around the bow then the 80# side would be too stiff and cause erratic arrow flight or hit off to one side.

If you can help me understand these questions I would appreciate your efforts. I have some cane shafts ready  to cut nocks and add inserts and am looking for opinions before I go further...Thanks

aero86:
i havent used inserts on mine, so i dont know.  but you need to match the spine of the cane to your bow. for yours, id suggest 70# on the stiff side, since cane is usually tapered

stringstretcher:
I am not sure what you mean by "stair step" type of insert.  But using a solid dowell in the end to plug the cane and then tapering it gives you the same thing as a wood shaft that has been tapered.  As for the shooting and hunting with it, a pluged cane shaft will stand much more punishment than wood because of it woven fibers, like carbon, than what a grain run off in wood will hold up to.

Now for the stiff side against the bow?  Using the stiff side of the shaft cuts down on paradox, the bending of the shaft, which allows it to recover quicker, therefore straightening up quicker. 

Now as to the spine you would need?  Lots more variables are needed to know.  Whats your total arrow length?  What point weight are you using?  Is your bow cut for center shot or are you shooting around the bow?  And what string material are you using?  To get the most out of cane, and to have the most effective arrow, a lot has to be taken into the spine.  IMO.

Hillbilly:
If you're going to use foreshafts, taper them. Personally I see absolutely no reason to use foreshafts in cane arrows. It's just a weak point and a pain in the butt to get balanced with not much benefit that I can see.

riarcher:
The "test shafts" I made up were not footed, 30", 50# bow, bare shaft w/o fletch.
Shafts ran from 45# to 75# (@ 28").
Needless to say, some were almost hitting sideways. Never had a issue w/ 145 gr. points and shaft breakage at close range.
I doubt I'll bother to foot any unless it's simply for show (or boredom).
Couple even hit the oak frame (again not so straight on) and they lived.

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