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ok, got a smoke pole

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stickbender:

     Like Mullet said, the more fouling, the more inconsistent your shots.  Do you have a JoAnn's fabric shop, or a cloth world, or any kind of fabric shop there?  And since I now have you on line, I have some foreign coins, some Italian, some French, some German, etc.
They are various sizes, are you still looking for some coins for your knife butts ?  I had sent you some pm's but never heard back from you.
The next time you try to sight your rifle in, try to run a wet patch down the bore after you shoot, then a dry one, and then load, and shoot again, and see where you are hitting.  Also get a good rest.  Don't rest the barrel on anything hard, as it will cause it to jump.  Put your hand under it, or a sand bag, etc.

                                                                                        Wayne

Eric Krewson:
Never seen a Walmart without a fabric/sewing department. If you can't find ticking, try to find drill cloth. It is off white, thick and close weave like ticking.

Close weave fabric is what you want, not just thick. Blown patches could be caused by several things, too thin patching material, too loose ball, or sharp lands in your rifling.

If you still blow patches after you find the correct patching material you need to work on the lands. To take the sharp edges off you use a piece green scotch bright pad wrapped around your bore brush and give the barrel about 100 strokes. This will polish the lands up real nicely and get rid of sharp edges.

You could also lead lap the barrel but that would be a lot of trouble when the scotch bright pad will do the same thing.

Dane:
You also may want to think about reducing the powder load. It isn’t a he-man masochistic contest, and 65 or 75 grains will kill a deer just as dead as 100 grains, the piece will be more pleasant to shoot, and it will cut down a bit on fouling. My experience tells me that guys tend to use larger loads than they really need.

A cleaning kit for field cleaning should be part of your kit every time you shoot, at the range or in the field. At least run a patch down the barrel between each shot, use a brush after every few shots, and make sure you clean the vent or nipple each time, too, so you get consistent ignition. And whatever habits you develop at the range should be followed when you hunt. You owe it to the animal. If you know where your piece will shoot at a given range after 5 shots, don’t take a shot at the animal after having fired the piece ten times, for example.

Any closely woven cotton fabric will do, not just pillow ticking. Ticking is designed specifically to minimize feathers coming out of a pillow or mattress, and there is such a thing as imitation ticking. If you switch to mini balls, you won’t have to worry about patching again.

Dane

recurve shooter:
i may switch to miniballs. seems like that would be a ton easyer. but idk i'll try to get something figured out. thanks a ton for all the help guys, i need it lol

stickbender, thanks for the offer, but after that one blade i refuse to do another hidden tang lol. they are a pain. i apriciate it though.  ;D

i need to get some more lead (roundballs and minis) and try again. i'll let yall know how it's comeing. again, thanks!  ;D

stickbender:

     Recurve, they used to make a little green plastic double ended cup for round balls, in stead of patch material.  Sort of like a sabot.  I have used them for my fifty cal. TC hawken.  I used a hundred and ten grains, behind a TC maxi ball, or Lee "R.E.A.L." Maxie.  I can't remember the name of the little cups, and the R.E.A.L. stands for rifling on entry, or something or another.  They both are accurate bullets.   I used to use 110 grains behind the Maxi Balls, because, I had better range, and it was the most accurate load, for the maxi balls.  Been a long time since I have been black powder hunting.  I might have to get back into it.

                                                                        Wayne

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