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ok, got a smoke pole
JW_Halverson:
Woodslore, do you have any first person documentation of "mountain men" or anyone's choice in pillow ticking. The only specific documentation I have seen was thin leather (mentioned because they had run out of patching material but no mention of what patching material), and a few references of using shirt tails when they were late in season and low on supplies.
Whatever your choice in patching, remember that the tighter it gets going down, the more you have to deform the front of the roundball pushing it down and seating it firmly on the powder. Try using several different th8icknesses pre-cut patching and decide what you like best. Then measure it with a micrometer and go to your local fabric store and buy a couple yards of tightly woven pure cotton cloth of a similar thickness. You'll pay about $10 for 3 yds of fabric that will last the life of the gun vs $3.50 for 100 precut patches.
Eric Krewson:
Walmart pillow ticking runs about .018 and is what I use in a .54 with a .535 ball. For patch lube I like Hoppes #9 plus lube and cleaner on the range and mink oil or natural lube for hunting because I may leave my gun loaded for a month or more.
I am a flintlock guy now but shot percussion for years.
Made this flinter last year from scratch(pile of parts and a block of wood), my first.
HatchA:
That.....is beautiful!!! :o
recurve shooter:
cool. thanks guys. i got some cotton fabric from hobby lobby, lady said it was the thickest cotton material she had. it seems to be working pretty well. the guy has a 1 in 48 twist, and im gunna stick to roundballs if i can. im about to go load her up and shoot some more. ;D
Eric, that thing is SWEET!!!! :o
stickbender:
Recurve, what the other guys said, and don't rely on the chrome barrel being a barrier from rust. If it is only water, and no Black Powder, it is very minimal rusting. But if you have black powder, and it gets moisture, from humidity, or where ever it "WILL" rust. Stainless steel, reacts differently to black powder rusting, or sulphuric acid, which is what you get when sulphur and water mix, and sulphur is a component in black powder. Stainless will have very little surface rust, but it will pit really bad. So do as Dane said, clean it extremely well !! I use hot soapy water, and remove the barrel, and the nipple, and stick the barrel down in a bucket of hot soapy water, and take the ram rod, and put a piece of cloth on it that will fit somewhat snug, and stick it down the barrel, and put the barrel in the bucket of water, and start pumping the ramrod up and down, and it will act like an old pitcher pump, and start drawing the hot soapy water up into the barrel, through the nipple insert, and you can bring it all the way to the top. Do this for at least three to four minutes, or longer, then run a clean rag down the barrel, and it it comes out sooty, or streaked, repeat the hot soapy water process, and then when a clean rag comes out clean, put the barrel down into a bucket of hot clean water, and do the pumping action with it, till it comes out clear, and no soap. You can just pour hot water down it also, to clean the soap out. Then let sit upside down, for a few minutes, and then run a clean dry rag down it, and then when it is dry, run a lightly oiled rag down it.
You have a lot fun ahead of you. Dirty, but fun! ;) Don't forget to clean the nipple also. And it would be a good idea, to get an extra nipple. ;)
Wayne
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