Red oak shorty

[Kegan]

I'm in the process of making a short little red oak "stalker". It's gonna be 55" long with 2" wide limbs. So far I'm drying in a reflex plus what is already there and plan to recurve it. But I do have a few quesitons:

1. Static or working recurves?

2. Does it have to be backed?

3. Should the handle work/bend?

Thanks in advance!

[Badger]

Kegan, what kind of draw weight and how far do you plan to draw it. Steve

[Justin Snyder]

What draw length?  Justin

[Justin Snyder]

Steve, Looks like you were posting while I was typing.  Justin

[Badger]

Every item you mentioned has an impact on the best width for the bow, reflex, stiff or beny handle?

[a finnish native]

I'd say, 1 static, 2 not unless drawlenght over 24" as I would do it. and 3 no he handle does not have to bend if you don't want it to. I would shoot for 50#@24" with a non bending handle and static recurves when the handle being 4.8 inches (12 cm) long.
 oh and if you decide to back it, don't back it with sinew. in my opinion the bow is too long for that witch leads to an overweight bow. and that will make the bow slower..

[tom sawyer]

1) static but as short as possible
2)no
3)yes

I don't know that static tips are gonna help you too much.  What you gain in the reflex at the tips, you'll lose in greater set from having a shorter working limb.  You might try splicing in some short statics.

I'd go with 1.5" width to midlimb.  Otherwise you'll have a lot of width taper to get to a nice handle, and its hard to get them bending into the handle when you have a big change in width like that.  And with only 55" you are pushing the limits of oak.

You could back with sinew, that would help you a lot.

I made a red oak board bow, 59" and high 50's for poundage at 27".  Just to give you an idea of what you can do with oak, don't know if its what you're looking for.

http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l200/62tomsawyer/oak%20bow/

[Kegan]

Woops- I forgot to type the rest ! I am shooting for around 60# (I know it's asking alot from the wood, but that's why I have sinew) at 24-26" draw. I was thinking of using working recurves, but some one had mentioned to me that satatic recurves give more draw length,  and I don't have any hide glue to sinew the bow at the moment.

Tom,
I have seen a method of "gentle taper". Some one showed me a few months ago how to make the handle bend but still have wider limbs. I haven't done it before, and with the stave being so short I was wondering if I should risk it- the wood is a good peice.

[Badger]

Kegan, I would go with a straight reflex instead of statics, If I did go static i would do as Tom suggested and keep them very small. One of the secrets to high early draw weight is not how much relfex you have but how little you have broken down the belly wood cells. High early draw weight will give you the smooth draw you are after. Even on flight bows where speed is my only concern I use no more than about 1 1/2" reflex or less anymore. I worry more about keeping the belly cells in pristine condition. I would use a stiff handle with short fades and getting it working right up to the fades.

[a finnish native]

you should do just fine with 60#, static recurves and no sinew

[Badger]

Keegan, I cant help but think you are asking a bit much from that design. I would keep the sinew handy! Steve