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Using reflex

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Pappy:
I have come to believe that Badger is right on this one,[as usually].We built some forms a while
back that put over 6 in. of backset in the stave's before tillering trying to get them to stand at least straight when finished and sometimes got a inch or 2 backset to stay in them but as my tillering has improved I find they do better with 2/3 in. of backset to start with and if you do it right it will hold at least most of it.Don't break as many  bows now and they seem to shoot better.They hold there tiller better after they are finished and usually never have a problem
with them changing after being shot a bunch.I think when you put a lot of backset in it ,it dose something to the wood and makes it hard for it to settle in.No hard data on this just some thoughts. :)
   Pappy

DCM:
I see net reflex as being the same as both higher brace height and draw lenght.  It's simply more deflection.  So 1" of reflex is like a bow braced 7" and drawn 29".  I think if you design for it, extra wood, it can be down without penalty.  But then you have a bow that's generally loud and sensitive to poor form (lots of push left at the end of the power stroke).  In combination with some deflex you can get away with more.  In this scenario you still have to design for extra load but mitigate the manners.  Like most things in life, it's the Goldilocks thing - just right is just right.

I don't know who ya'll can tiller out bows and only give 1".  It's the rare project that I can get done and give less than 1 1/2", frequently 2".  And based on what I've heard, I am hypersensitive to overworking the bow on the tree.  I frequently get a bow shooting without taking it past 24" on the tree, and never exceed final draw weight - 10#.  I don't think I put as much heat on the stave when I do my initial reflexing.

I've built a few bows with really good "nose" or early weight which started straight and finished with a bit of string follow.  Don't know if it was just the odd lucky piece of wood or what.  I'm curious to try to duplicate.

George Tsoukalas:
Sometimes I'll reflex/semi recurve the last  8 inches of a stave right after long string tillering.Sometimes not. Depends on the stave. Sometimes the stave won't take a reflex. For example, if the rings are thin and the stave is twisted and knotted I'm not going to toss in any reflex.  Badger, I agree about finding the right width for a stave. I mostly, do it by "listening" to the stave. I start wide. As I tiller I get to a point, where the stave does not respond to belly removal. Then I begin to narrow it. Slowly. All the while exercising it and checking tiller. At any rate, I'm just amazed at the things wood can do. :) Jawge

Pappy:
I do exercise my quite a bit while tillering but never go over intended draw weight and
not close to draw weight in the early stages.I exercise  with slow gentle pulls,I have seen some that work them hard and fast.I don't like that.I just make a slow pull down and let right off
and never keep it at what ever length for over a second or 2.Just long enough to look and
maybe a few marks.I also really take my time tillering,I usually do it in 2 or 3 stages.First brace,then out to 12/14 inches and then finish up if it isn't giving much trouble if it is it might take 4 times
with plenty of time in between for it to rest.That has seemed to help a lot as far as set. :)
   Pappy

DanaM:
Pappy thats dem young ones they go hard and fast,
us older folks know that slow and steady is much better ;) ;D

Dana

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