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Advice on tillering a reflexed stave

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SimonUK:
Sorry no photos yet... but I have a stave of wych elm that is set back natrually at one spot close to the handle. The degree of reflex is quite significant and the tips are about 4 inches forward of the handle. How should I tiller it?

I'm thinking along the lines of tillering the handle first, to make it come straight when pulled to the desired draw weight. Then to tiller the limbs. It's going to look a bit like a Victorian bow when finished I'm sure.

Thanks, Simon

Yeomanbowman:
Hello Simon,
I'll look forward to seeing that bow.
One thing about reflexed staves is that the early draw-weight is really high, pro-rata.  Keep this in mind, as it is easy to under shoot the desired weight.  I've found getting a low brace early on is a big help.  Good luck.
J

Kviljo:
If you've got a "template" - a similar finished bow, you could simply transfer the dimensions of that bow onto the reflexed one. That way you should give it a good tiller right away, and be able to draw it more than 4" the first draw, so that it won't flip on the tiller.

Marc St Louis:
Simon
I would tiller the bow out normally but leave the handle a bit stiff. If you tiller the handle out first then you will just have to play catch up with the rest of the limbs after, not good practice IMO. What draw weigth are you going for?

SimonUK:
Thanks guys.

Good idea Kviljo - I'm basing it on a recently made ash bow of the same length and draw weight.

Marc, I'm aiming for 65 or maybe 70 lbs at 31 inches.

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