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Advice on tillering a reflexed stave

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markinengland:
I would agree that getting it braced as soon as you can is a good idea as this is the only way you'll get an idea of the shape. Personally I'd brace it to maybe 5 inches and work at getting the braced shape right, exercising it just a few inches. Once the shape looks reasonable forget about the reflex and go for the shape you want it to be at increasing draw length, checking for set to see if you are over straining any areas like the reflexed bit.

SimonUK:
Thanks Mark. I haven't done anything with it yet... I just keep looking at it in a slightly worried way  :)

If I forget about the deflexed area, won't I run the risk of over-bending it and creating set?

markinengland:
Simon,
A lot depends on how localised and pronounced the reflex or deflex is, how strong the stave is now and how strong you want it to end up. If stringing the bow to a lowish brace height now is acheivable and won't overstrain the wood (go over final draw weight) then perhaps the best thing to do is do that now so you have a good idea of what you really have. It is very easy to end up whip tillered or underweight with too much floor tillering or tillering on a long string.I learnt this the hard way. With reflex it is easy to go to weak as the early brace strength is higher than normal. I think it works well to keep at or very near and never over desired poundage, working the wood to this weight well after every wood removal, working the draw length back, keeping good shape and within draw weight.
Yes, you would have to live with and and make allowance for a pronounced localised reflex or deflex.  Keeping an eye on where any set is developing shows where the wood is being stressed too much and so wood needs taking off every where else. If you aim for spreading even stress over as much of the limb as possible you won't go far wrong.

SimonUK:
Thanks Mark, very good advice. Sorry I meat to say 'reflexed' in my last post.

I'll let you know how it goes.

SimonUK:
A quick update - it was a disaster. I tried to get an early brace but did a bit too much floor tillering as mark warned. The tips and midlimbs developed a lot of set and it was way underweight. I probably should have made the handle area bend a bit more. I could still get a lightweight bow out of it, but I'd rather move on to a more normal stave! The wood had very narrow rings which makes it weak I understand.

Here are the before and after pics. The back is to the right.

Before: http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118/simon2468/?action=view&current=HPIM0074.jpg
After: http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118/simon2468/?action=view&current=HPIM0075.jpg

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