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white ash build along (finally done( this time for real))

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fishfinder401:
if i heat treat the belly, could i get away with a more d profile, still not a true elb shape, but maybe closer, and for the tips, how about either 1 or 3/4 across,
thankyou
noel

Marc St Louis:
Heat-treating wood will not make it more elastic.  Keep the width down to 1 1/2" at the centre and make the shape a flattened D cross section.  Also make it at least 76" long for a 32" draw

fishfinder401:
i heard this type of ash is already elastic, i was thinking it would help with the set problems i have heard about, but its 75 long, so i think i can make it ;D

Del the cat:
This thread reminds me of the old joke about the tourist driving around Ireland. He gets lost and stops to ask the way...
" Ah to be sure, If I were you I wouldn't start from here..." ::)
But back to one of the questions, I wouldn't try making traditional ELB horn nocks out of any wood, I'd think the risk of splitting is far too high. Even horn has grain but it's much more homogenous than any wood.
Waterbuffalo horn is pretty cheap and easy to get hold off (well it is in the UK), failing that, an Ebony tip overlay would look really cool.
I did a V narrow light weight Ash ELB for  someone at the club who is just starting out, I didn't want to put in too much work so I did WB horn tip overlays, I heat treated the belly to keep the weight up and set down as it had ended up V narrow and underweight due to finding a crack in the stave late on in the process. It looked nice in the end and I named it the Needle :)
Bow making is great for teaching patience and humility... I was always a cocky impatient young git.
I'm now just a cocky impatient old git who has learned when to step back ;D
Del
PS.
There is a good pdf download on making Ash ELBs from Alan Blackhams backstreet bowyer site. Some of it will be stuff you know, but there is some great stuff about exactly the sort of bow you are trying to make.

Ian.:
At what point do you primitive bowyers start heat treating..

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