newbie arrow question

[HighEagle]

Hi all,
 New to both arrow making and bow making . Ended up with 5 bows this spring, 2 board bows, 3 selfbows all but one came out under weight worked on tillering and (to much) sometimes wasn't sure when to quite. So I need some light arrows.

Question is I just cut some Red Willow and Wild Rose today, do I leave the bark on or peel it off right away? I peeled the rose last year right the bat and all of them split at the little pin knots, maybe I answered my own question.

Do you seal ends?

And do you straighten after shaft is seasoned or now? Dry heat or steam?

Thanks for the Help, Charlie HighEagle

[jackcrafty]

Do I leave the bark on or peel it off right away?

It depends on the wood.  Most shoots are fine if you peel them right away.

Do you seal ends?

Yep.  I use wood glue but you can use paint, melted wax, or whatever is on hand.

And do you straighten after shaft is seasoned or now? Dry heat or steam?

Both.  Wet heat for green wood and dry heat for seasoned wood.

[Sparrow]

Jackcrafty got it all said. I use alot of wild rose. I leave the bark on for a year and I cut them extra long (Like 36 " or longer) Then I don't have to bother sealing them.  I then take the bark off and straighten with dry heat.They aren't ever cracked (Checked)  past a couple inches from the end. I cut ten times more than I need and let them sit and dry. The shoots I have been using are ten years old or older. Rose is an excellent shaft.  '  Frank

[HighEagle]

Thanks Guys,  When I was cutting the rose today there a few dead ones that looked good went to cut one at the base approx 5/8" my nips could hardly cut it it was so hard.

My next stop mock orange (syringa )and lilac patches same advice go for these two? Any words on the red willow?

Thanks Chuck

[jackcrafty]

Cut 'em all and sort 'em out later...

[Sparrow]

 Cut 'em,seal 'em and bundle them. Put them away. I made some very fine arrows out of lilac about ten-twelve years ago. They were dense and strong. I debarked and staightened them as they dried over about a week. They stopped losing moisture and stayed straight. I fletched and put on points and shot them to pieces over about three months. (I was shooting daily in those days.)  '  Frank

[Pat B]

I wouldn't use any shoots that are already dead. Too much chance that they have been infected with fungi.
  One trick I heard here a year or so ago was to strip the bark of freshly cut shoots but leave an inch or 2 at each end with the bark on. I tried this with good results on viburnum, a shoot that normally would check if the bark was removed too soon.   Do some experimenting with different methods to see what works best for your area and the materials you have available. To be safe, bundle the fresh cut shoots and let them rest for a month or so before removing the bark.

[HighEagle]

Found this Fine Grained Black Basalt utilized flake today while out walking the dog pack, perfect timing I have the perfect job for this lithic tool. Some kind of cool pix of some peeled Red Willow and a few Wild Wood Rose, I did cheat a little and used the my knife on some of the Rose shoots.

Thanks all, for looking and all the help, Chuck
 
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Never posted any pix here hope it works ,Crg

[HighEagle]

I left the best one out here it is, Crg

[Pat B]

I love making shoot and cane arrows. I 've only made a few rose shafts but I have tried many others Sourwood is my favorite with redosier right up there too. 
  Is red willow a true willow(Salix) or is it redosier dogwood (Cornus)?

[George Tsoukalas]

I leave the bark on and never seal the ends. I leave the shoots long and trim as needed. I straighten them every few days and that is the secret to getting them nice and straight often without heat. Jawge

[aero86]

i was gonna say what george said.  straighten every few days or so.  makes it easier when straightening later.

[scattershot]

What kind of knife is that in the pic with the shafts?

Thanks

[HighEagle]

Hi Guys,

I have been much to busy lately plus the computer crashed,  Had a hernia repair and to boot the ranch sold all the cows and downsized me so I have been busy packing for a big move and recovering from surgery at the same time doesn't leave much time for arrow and bow making.

ScatterShot, my knife is from North Coast Knifes, laminate carbon steel Puukko 3 3/4" blade about $20. I have had it for about 5-6 years been good but kind of hard to sharpen. Had a Yew wood handle on it for awhile till it split, recently have replaced it with Locus and a true oil finish 


Sparrow, I have spent a good bit of time in Pataha and the Tucannon drainage on archaeological field survey crews. I'll ansewer your PM next

Till next time, Chuck

[scattershot]

Beautiful work on that handle.