I think that it is easy to overthink it.... I make a lot of cane arrows. The stuff grows everywhere here in L.A., ....(Lower Alabama). I don't spine them, weigh them or weigh my points.... Maybe I am not doing something right, but I like the way they group and the way they fly. I cut them and bundle them about three feet long, with the fat end measuring about 3/8" diameter - about a dozen to the bundle. Let them dry about three months and then I cut them about thirty inches... a little long for my 28" draw. I sand the nodes down and get the shaft all slicked up. Self nocks are filed in near a node. I heat them and hand straighten them on my stove. When they roll good and look straight, I glue in a foreshaft of oak dowel with a point tied to it for hunting arrows or a cut down 30-06 brass for a blunt is glued right on the cane. I don't make too many target points. I practice on a round bale of hay and the blunts do fine. I do try to pay attention to which side of the arrow is the stiffest and fletch it accordingly... If they fly good I put them in the keeper quiver. If not, I put them in with those other guys..... I can put most of these "keeper quiver" arrows in a place big as my hand at 20 steps which is good enough for me. I use turkey feathers and a piece of leather made into one of those primitive fletching jigs and a little thread and glue. I have stopped having to repair fletching very often since I started tying on feathers. Some arrows just fly better than others, so I have made enough of them till I get a set I like. The ones that aren't flying so well out of one bow, will usually fly great from one a little lighter or heavier. That's how I have been doing it.