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Put ebony nocks on Rudders' warbow, had to shorten a bit, chrysaling???!

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mikekeswick:
As you already know that bow is toast.
Firstly if you had to take any length off it should have been EXACTLY the same amount off both limbs.
The bow is bending way too much in the inner third. No wonder you've got chyrsals!!!
Hickory/ipe/hickory is about the worst possible combo of those woods. I don't know how this company gets any business.....
Ditch this bow and make/buy yourself a decent one!

nineworlds9:

--- Quote from: mikekeswick on March 15, 2013, 04:57:12 am ---As you already know that bow is toast.
Firstly if you had to take any length off it should have been EXACTLY the same amount off both limbs.
The bow is bending way too much in the inner third. No wonder you've got chyrsals!!!
Hickory/ipe/hickory is about the worst possible combo of those woods. I don't know how this company gets any business.....
Ditch this bow and make/buy yourself a decent one!

--- End quote ---

Yeah, as you and Del said, I've kinda answered a lot of my own questions...

Yup thank gosh I didn't pay a new price for the dang thing.  Live and learn. 

DarkSoul:
Well, you came to the right conclusion. Not much more to add.

On a side note, I don't think it's a smart idea to use wooden nocks like that. Have you ever seen them before? That's a good indication, because I haven't seen any succesful ones. One failure, but none came out good. There is a reason for that. Wood will split much more readily than horn. The forces the string applies to the nock, make the wood split. It just pulls the nock sideways, along the grain. The only reason you nocks survived thus far, is because you left them incredibly bulky. If you shaved them down a bit more like Del suggested, you will split the nocks in halves as soon as you brace the bow.
My suggestion for this bow would be to correct the tiller. At the moment it's agonizing to see. Correcting the tiller shouldn't take more than an hour and will greatly increase the longevity. It will still be a very mediocre bow at best, but at the moment it is just doomed to fail at one point. Also, do NOT sand those chrysals. Just remove the finish, but leave all the wood underneath. Correcting the tiller will alleviate some of the pressure from those chrysals.

robby:
That may be the single worst tiller job I've seen on this site!!! I don't know who this Rudder guy is, but if he is offering these for sale he should know better. >:(
Robby

nineworlds9:
Dark and Robby-

Don't worry I only sanded through the finish and kissed the wood.  Good point about 'wood' nocks.  Yes horn would have been better.  At least it's ebony?! LoL.  Yeah I'll say even before I modified (mutilated!) the bow it left something to be desired.  But hey Im glad I bought it used (with a whopping 3 inches of set!) and paid a low price.  Before the nocks and also after the bow has a lot of hand shock.  I am going to take the advice and maybe use this one as a guinea pig/learning tool and play with tillering for the very first time.  Maybe a little hospitaling will save this one?

Yeah Rudderbows has gone underground.  They sell through 3Rivers now anonymously.  Emailed with them once, very friendly people, can't say anything bad about them personally but can't speak for others.  I can say however that my next warbow will not be 2nd hand but purchased new from Britain or better yet made by ME.

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