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Put ebony nocks on Rudders' warbow, had to shorten a bit, chrysaling???!
Joec123able:
--- Quote from: DarkSoul on March 15, 2013, 07:45:06 am ---Well, you came to the right conclusion. Not much more to add.
On a side note, I don't think it's a smart idea to use wooden nocks like that. Have you ever seen them before? That's a good indication, because I haven't seen any succesful ones. One failure, but none came out good. There is a reason for that. Wood will split much more readily than horn. The forces the string applies to the nock, make the wood split. It just pulls the nock sideways, along the grain. The only reason you nocks survived thus far, is because you left them incredibly bulky. If you shaved them down a bit more like Del suggested, you will split the nocks in halves as soon as you brace the bow.
My suggestion for this bow would be to correct the tiller. At the moment it's agonizing to see. Correcting the tiller shouldn't take more than an hour and will greatly increase the longevity. It will still be a very mediocre bow at best, but at the moment it is just doomed to fail at one point. Also, do NOT sand those chrysals. Just remove the finish, but leave all the wood underneath. Correcting the tiller will alleviate some of the pressure from those chrysals.
--- End quote ---
I dont agree with Wat you said about the nocks ebony wood is very very hard I very highly doubt you would split them
DarkSoul:
Ebony is hard in terms of specific gravity. But ebony is still wood, and has a grain. The wood fibers are running in one direction. Despite the fact that ebony is hard, is can still easily be split along the fibers. Did you ever try to spit some firewood or even whole logs? It's remarkable how easy it is to split wood, as long as the split in the longitudinal direction and not across the grain. Just because ebony is hard, doesn't mean it can't be split. You should try splitting an ebony log, just to prove my fact.
Horn doesn't have such a clear grain running in one direction. It still has somewhat of a grain, but is much, much more 'interlocked' so to speak. Splitting horn is ten times more difficult than splitting wood (/ebony).
Joec123able:
Yep that is true I will not argue that but if you make the nocks with the grain running a specific way then it makes it alot harder to split I've never after years had a wood nock split on me it's usually dependent on which way the grain runs that determines how easy it will split
toomanyknots:
If hickory is such a bad belly wood, why is it working for me anymore? I guess I might of got a really good piece or something,... ? With 100# or so, I have been getting only about an 1" of set. Now of course an inch is still not super duper great, (and of course the example of this bow in this thread obviously ain't great for hickorys rep) but it seems to work alot better than other woods I have used, and in my book, an inch is just fantastic for a 100# bow. I am curious, to all you other bowyers out there that have actual experience with each wood in longbow and warbow design, how would you rank each wood in compression: hickory, ash, white oak, curly maple, birdseye maple... I have heard (from alanesq's pdf) that ash will chrysal after 100# or so. And I have read on here over and over that hickory will and will not make a heavy warbow. What is the deal yall? :D
nineworlds9:
Joe/Dark- for reference I checked the nocks...fella who initially made em in roughed out form did indeed carve em with grain going longitudinally, grain parallel to bow.
As for hickory belly, it may not be taking the strain if this botched nock job haha very well, but at least it hasn't broken yet. I keep measuring the set and it hasn't grown..it was 3" when I got the bow at 76" and still 3" now that its 72" and jacked up LoL
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