Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
Update on 120# yew warbow - I don't like to complain, but...
Thesquirrelslinger:
just clamp them together, use a hacksaw(yes, it takes forever, but gives an amazingly clean cut) or sharp handsaw to cut out the splice. Or just clamp into a vice after drawing out the pattern.
and then cut on the lines. It isn't that hard.
toomanyknots:
--- Quote from: Thesquirrelslinger on December 16, 2013, 07:03:41 pm ---just clamp them together, use a hacksaw(yes, it takes forever, but gives an amazingly clean cut) or sharp handsaw to cut out the splice. Or just clamp into a vice after drawing out the pattern.
and then cut on the lines. It isn't that hard.
--- End quote ---
I've heard a japanese pull saw is good for these as well. Even on the splices I do on my bandsaw, I still have to take a good bit sanding and filing to get a good mating anyway. When I splice cores or bellies, I will cut the cores/bellies long enough to where I overlap them and tape them together, then draw out my splice cut, and cut them together taped over one and other in one cut. It still doesn't even come close to a perfect match, and I will need to cut off the tip of the one piece, or use a razor blade to cut into the other to fit the pointed end of the other.
WillS:
--- Quote from: Thesquirrelslinger on December 16, 2013, 07:03:41 pm ---just clamp them together, use a hacksaw(yes, it takes forever, but gives an amazingly clean cut) or sharp handsaw to cut out the splice. Or just clamp into a vice after drawing out the pattern.
and then cut on the lines. It isn't that hard.
--- End quote ---
It's not that easy if you're trying to hand cut a billet which you can't rough out square though. It's yew, so I can't square up the sapwood, and its going to be a working splice in the centre of a full compass bow. If it was the handle of a non-bending centre, or was going to be backed it wouldn't be a problem...
Vices won't hold onto a curved piece of wood.
PatM:
Square up the belly side. I'm not sure why you think a vice won't hold a curved piece of wood. You can always rasp a flat on the sides you want the vice to grip.
A working splice seems like an iffy thing though.
Del the cat:
I'd be seriously tempted to strengthen the back of a splice on a warbow, by rasping a shallow flat over the splice for about 8-10" over the splice (fading from nothing to about 1/8- 3/16" deep) and overlaying a 3/16" slat of clean sapwood to take the back tension. Even with a bit of a bulge at the grip a bow still flexes.
The Yew stick bow I just made was left very fat at the grip, but as I tillered it with the bark on, I could see it starting to crack off dead centre. So even a 'non bending handle' probably flexes a tad.
Del
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