Author Topic: Some english style arrows / first arrows from my router jig, also new fletch jig  (Read 14603 times)

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Offline toomanyknots

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Here's some english style arrows, 35lb spine for a 50lb bow I made for the guy that sells me leather. He is a re-enactor I believe, so I thought he would like these better than the carbon arrows he was using on his fiberglass bow. They are ash, 125 grain field points, with two white and one natural turkey fletchings at 6 1/2" long, and finished with tru oil. I went over the servings once in clear wood glue, and then again in tru oil with a brush again. These are the first proper arrows I have made with shafts I turned on a router jig I made in this thread: https://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,43769.0/nowap.html









Here is the fletching jig I used to fletch the longer fletchings, I tried to copy richard head longbows big jig basically, but used a wooden clamp for the fletchings. I put a spring clamp on it to hold the feather when gluing or sanding the bottom flat, it works really good actually for reducing the bottom of feathers, I used a file first and then switch to a sanding block with the feather clamped.










"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline Trapper Rob

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Fine looking arrows.

Offline RyanR

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Nice looking arrows.

Offline lostarrow

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Those look great,................................(and please take this in the helpful spirit it is given) If the pictures  are telling the whole story, the grain looks dangerously bad for arrows. There appears to be a huge amount of run off  .  If these are strictly for decorative purposes ,it doesn't matter. But those look too good not to shoot! The way the grain is oriented , when the shaft breaks ,the piece being pushed by the string will make a lance that will be driven into the bow hand instead of being forced up over the front of the broken  shaft. (unless he's a lefty)Take a  dowel that you've finished that has similar grain , and give it a good flex. I think you will find it gives up surprisingly quick. 

Offline toomanyknots

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Thanks guys. Lost arrow, thank you for the advice, the grain wasn't perfect in the ash I ripped these from.

Edit: And speaking of that, how would you position the run off of a shaft optimally?
« Last Edit: January 07, 2014, 12:29:27 pm by toomanyknots »
"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline RBLusthaus

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so that on the top of the arrow as it sits on the shelf of the bow is pointing away from the shooter. 

Russ

Offline toomanyknots

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so that on the top of the arrow as it sits on the shelf of the bow is pointing away from the shooter. 

Russ

Okee Dokey, thank you!
"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline toomanyknots

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Ok, I think I got yall now. So the run off (if there is run off) should be like this:



Just don't look right though? haha
"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline RBLusthaus

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  • Posts: 753
Correct. 

Envision, if you will, that at the moment of release, the force of the string on the nock, breaks the arrow along the grain - - the back end of the now broken arrow will go up and away from the bow hand. 

If the grain is reversed, the back end of the broken arrow will go down, into the bow hand - - ouch!!!!!

Russ

Offline burchett.donald

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  Beautiful work...
Genesis 27:3 Now therefore take, I pray thee, thy weapons, thy quiver and thy bow, and go out to the field, and take me some venison;

Offline toomanyknots

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Correct. 

Envision, if you will, that at the moment of release, the force of the string on the nock, breaks the arrow along the grain - - the back end of the now broken arrow will go up and away from the bow hand. 

If the grain is reversed, the back end of the broken arrow will go down, into the bow hand - - ouch!!!!!

Russ

TOTALLY got you now! That makes perfect sense. Thank you for explaining it. I've heard this before, but I never really got it, thank you, much appreciated!

  Beautiful work...

Thank you, I have been practicing ms-paint for years, I am studying the great ms-painters right now in school, some day I hope to become an ms-paint master... oh wait, you were probably talking about the arrows, ( ;D). J/k, thank you Burchett!
"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline osage outlaw

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Instead of filing and sanding the quill of the arrow while its in your clamp you can put it on a belt sander for just a second or two with a fine belt.  I use a similar clamp made from scraps for sanding them.  Just be careful.  It can eat a feather up pretty fast. 

Your arrows look very classy.  Nice job on them.
I started out with nothin' and I still got most of it left

Offline turtle

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Great looking arrows. I struggle with getting the spacing even on my feather wraps. Especially on my hunting arrows. I just don't have the patience to be that neat on something I'm going to loose or break.
Steve Bennett

Offline toomanyknots

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Great looking arrows. I struggle with getting the spacing even on my feather wraps. Especially on my hunting arrows. I just don't have the patience to be that neat on something I'm going to loose or break.

When I do the whipping, I do them at night after I am done with everything I am going to do that day, with me and my wife watching something on the tv. I use a needle, not threaded to the string, but just to poke the feather apart where I think it is evenly spaced for the thread to go, and pop the thread in. If it is not evenly spaced, I will pull it out, and use the needle over just a bit to separate it again, than try again, etc. Richard Head longbows has a video on youtube with Richard Heads son whipping an arrow super fast, I don't know if I could get a hang of doing it that way though.
"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline WillS

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Fast fletch binding just takes a bit of practice.  I used to do it with a needle but gave up as it's too much faffing about for me! Once you find a method that works for you, you can get a lot done pretty quickly.

Anyway, those are beautiful arrows Daniel.  I love ash shafts - especially when finished with just oil as it brings the grain out superbly.  Very nice work, and would be a more than acceptable set for a warbow shoot!  Just need to make 'em half an inch thick now and put some hand forged heads on ;)