Author Topic: Working green-ish wood  (Read 2987 times)

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Offline wizardgoat

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Working green-ish wood
« on: January 14, 2014, 02:18:43 am »
Hey guys, I'm working on my first 2 bows. A 46" Osage paddle bow,
and a 68" red elm flat bow. The staves were cut only a few months
ago, and the Osage is showing 16% moisture, and the elm is 12%.
I couldn't wait, and I read you can get a bow to close dimensions
and it will dry quicker, but I can't find any info on how close
exactly? I know I don't want to be bending it yet, but if I take too much
off could they warp or shrink?
Thanks, I'm really happy I found this site, what a great resource!

Offline huisme

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Re: Working green-ish wood
« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2014, 06:41:36 am »
I don't know much about drying osage besides that it should season as a stave for at least a year.

Elm can be worked to floor tiller the day it's cut without much risk in my experience, and 12% moisture should be good to keep going.
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline Pappy

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Re: Working green-ish wood
« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2014, 08:15:29 am »
I have just worked them down until they will bend a little,a little over sized on the sides and clamp them to something to keep from twisting and put them in a dry place for a few weeks,on the Osage for sure seal the back and ends if it is green and I would probably do the same on the Elm just to be safe, and prevent checking,in my experence with Elm 12% is to high to work/bend,I would get it down to at least 8, it needs to be dry,same with the Osage. :) I would just move inside to start and after a week or so put it around a heater duct or somewhere
really dry,it will dry out pretty quick.I don't do it much anymore because I have plenty of seasoned wood and I prefer it to not only be dry but seasoned,now that will open a can of worms around here. >:D ;) :)
 Pappy
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Offline Hrothgar

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Re: Working green-ish wood
« Reply #3 on: January 14, 2014, 09:37:09 am »
Pappy, "dry AND seasoned", that somehow sounds familiar. I think bowyers would better understand the concepts after they reach age 50 ;)
" To be, or not to be"...decisions, decisions, decisions.

Offline Blaflair2

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Re: Working green-ish wood
« Reply #4 on: January 14, 2014, 01:16:02 pm »
U need to make sure u seal the back. Poly or something along those lines work well
Nothing ventured nothing gained

Offline Pat B

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Re: Working green-ish wood
« Reply #5 on: January 14, 2014, 01:24:52 pm »
No matter what the M/C is now if they were cut only a few months ago they need more time to season, at least the osage. I built a 60" osage static recurve a few years ago that was less than 2 months off the stump. It felt dry, worked like a dry stave but when all was said and done it fretted badly and took lots of set. After a few more months I ground the belly flat and added another osage lam and retiller and everything was fine.
 You could probably start working on the elm but I'd wait for the osage...and be sure to seal the ends and back like others have said. I prefer to use spray shellac to seal bow wood. It is quick and easy and is easily removed if or when needed. 
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline wizardgoat

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Re: Working green-ish wood
« Reply #6 on: January 14, 2014, 02:19:15 pm »
Thanks everyone for your replies. Well I spent alot of time backing
the osage, so if I use a spray on sealer, I can just do a quick sand to
remove it? Really dont want to work it to
another ring. Its still over an inch thick so hopefully
I don't have to worry about it warping too much.

For the red elm, in TBB1 it says you don't have to
remove the sapwood unless its showing rot, but I've
read quite a few ppl saying they remove it.
other than looking nice, does the sapwwod serve
as a backing as in yew? It sure seems softer
than yew sapwood, but than again its still
a little green.

Offline wizardgoat

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Re: Working green-ish wood
« Reply #7 on: January 14, 2014, 02:24:42 pm »
And I thought the point of bringing it to a near finished dimension
was so it would dry quicker, it never said to re seal it again at
this point.  I apologize, I'm still a book bowyer
at this point, but I for sure don't want to ruin this stave.

Offline Pat B

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Re: Working green-ish wood
« Reply #8 on: January 14, 2014, 02:54:34 pm »
With red elm you use the sapwood for bows, ideally what's just under the bark.
 What did you back the osage with?
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline wizardgoat

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Re: Working green-ish wood
« Reply #9 on: January 14, 2014, 03:04:00 pm »
I ordered the staves online, and the red elm already had
the bark removed, and was pretty violated. I tried to even
it all out by sanding, and its about 5mm thick.
The osage isn't backed with anything, I meant I chased a
nice ring and the back was complete.  If I have to seal it
again I just want to be able to remove it easily, preferably
not sanding and inhaling polyurethane haha

Offline Pat B

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Re: Working green-ish wood
« Reply #10 on: January 14, 2014, 03:10:48 pm »
With shellac you just wipe it off with alcohol or lightly sand it off. That's one reason I like it. Also any finish will go over shellac with no problem.
 You might want to back the elm with rawhide if the back ring is violated. Silk or linen will also work.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC