Main Discussion Area > HowTo's and Build-a-longs
Holmegaard build along
PK:
Watching your Build Along is much easier to remember that reading all those articles Ive been searching for, thanks for the lesson.PK
Ghost Dog:
This is like reading a suspense novel. What will happen to our hero in the next episode?
adb:
Good day, Everyone!
Well, we're back in the deep freeze, here in Mid-West Canada. The temp this morning was a balmy -32C, with a brisk wind, making it -50C with the windchill! A good morning to stay inside, and work in the shop!
When we left off a few days ago, we had the bow at low brace height, and 50# @ 20". Today, I've tillered further. I put away the rasp, and from now on, I'll only be using the scraper and sand paper to get it to final weight and draw. Remember, our goal is: 52 - 57# @ 27".
There is NOTHING worse, in my opinion, than woprking with crappy tools that are dull. Cheap dull tools make me curse. So, for my scrapers, I like to keep them sharp and burred with a special tool. It's a variable burnishing tool, which sets the burr angle. As you all know, a scraper edge should not be square for working wood, It should have a burr, or hook, on the cutting edge. Depending on how aggressively you want to remove material, will determine the hook angle, up to about 15 degrees.
First, I'll place my scraper in the bench vise, square up the edges with an 8" flat mill bastard file, and the put the hook edge on.
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adb:
Once this is done, you should be able to feel a nice hooked edge on your scraper.
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adb:
In the past, I just used to work my scraper in my hands. I found this caused 2 problems: my hands got tired (especially my thumbs), and my finger tips were burned, caused by the heat generated by the friction of scraping.
So, I purchased a scraper holder. Worth every penny.
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