Author Topic: reducing spine? (Read 4806 times)

thomas74p · « **on:** June 10, 2015, 09:41:16 am »

I bought some #60-65 shafts a few years ago, but since the begining of the year have reduced the weight of the bow 12 pounds because it was just too heavy and not fun to shoot. i would like to reduce the spine of those arrows instead of buying more. can I lightly sand them to reduce their spine?

thomas74p · « **Reply #1 on:** June 10, 2015, 09:55:18 am »

just saw a thread below mine about spine

looks like I should scrape it a bit with a razor then lightly sand

Pat B · « **Reply #2 on:** June 10, 2015, 10:28:21 am »

You can lightly sand the center of the shaft to reduce the spine. Or, you can add heavier tip weight; 5# for each 25grs over 125grs.
How long are your arrows. For each inch over 28" you can reduce the effective spine by 5#.

Aaron H · « **Reply #3 on:** June 10, 2015, 10:33:13 am »

Pat, so you only sand the center section when reducing spine?

Pat B · « **Reply #4 on:** June 10, 2015, 10:37:00 am »

The center is the part that bends. By weakening that you reduce the spine. I've not done this with doweled shafts but probably the center 2/3.

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #5 on:** June 10, 2015, 10:37:14 am »

It takes very little sanding to really change it. Id sand a bit, shoot and repeat on each shaft until they all left the same. Don't bother measuring anything.

Pappy · « **Reply #6 on:** June 10, 2015, 11:09:03 am »

Center 2/3 is about right as Pat said.

Pappy

thomas74p · « **Reply #7 on:** June 10, 2015, 02:58:31 pm »

only the center! excellent. just the info I need. my arrows are 25''. I will deffinetly try this. do you think I'll be able to slice the turkey feathers off and reuse them? I'm going to try regardless, don't have enough extras to be wasting any if I didn't need to.

DC · « **Reply #8 on:** June 10, 2015, 03:34:31 pm »

I would try one without removing the feathers. Scrape from the feathers forward.

Pat B · « **Reply #9 on:** June 10, 2015, 05:23:45 pm »

Thomas, did your 25" arrows come from full length 60#-65# shafts? If so, your 25" shafts shoot like 75#-80# shafts because for each inch under 28"(AMO standard)you increase the effective spine by 5# per inch.

warpath · « **Reply #10 on:** June 10, 2015, 07:24:25 pm »

Doing nock end or barrell tapers will also reduce the spine. This is what I did for the shafts I made for Pearlie. Just ask him how it works.

G

Pappy · « **Reply #11 on:** June 11, 2015, 04:54:10 am »

I have found just doing the nock end barrel tapper out to about 6 inches don't change the spine, they will shoot great and more clearance of course won't it doesn't really change the spine, after 6 inches if you tapper on up the shaft it will change it a couple of pounds for each inch you move up.

Just my observation and also what I was told by the guy that gifted me the tapper jig, it seem to work out about like he said it would.

Pappy

warpath · « **Reply #12 on:** June 11, 2015, 07:41:23 am »

Pappy- I agree completely. When I do my nock end tapers, I usually taper the whole shaft unless otherwise requested. Also depends what the shaft's spine is to start with and what the desired spine is.

G

Pat B · « **Reply #13 on:** June 11, 2015, 08:17:26 am »

Adding a rear or full length taper to a doweled shaft allows the shaft to act like a cane or hardwood shoot shaft by making it more draw weight tolerable. It think it is more weight tolerant than spine reduction although the full taper will reduce the spine some.

Pappy · « **Reply #14 on:** June 11, 2015, 10:12:25 am »

Yep, my thoughts also, I don't tapper a lot but should do more it really does make them easier to match up with your bow.

Pappy

Primitive Archer