Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
WHere to procure EWB
WillS:
Mark Stretton uses a flat steel template for his, with spoon shape, hot cut length and shaft diameter hole all on one small square of steel. Dead handy. The spoon is drawn by simply measuring the circumference of the socket of a complete head all the way along, and plotting that flat, plus a bit extra for the overlap.
A good Type 16 shouldn't really have flared out fins - the barbs which are fire welded onto the socket should be incredibly close to the socket, so that they look from a distance like one solid head. The Tudor bodkin was likely an evolution of these, where the barbs just became one with the socket. I think the heavily flared or "swept" Type 16s are more imaginative than historical.
This is the Type 16 that was made for me, and is being tested at the moment. It was based on an existing find in the London Museum, and is virtually identical to about 7 of the ones in that collection. The socket is 1/2".
root:
WillS or anyone else for that matter.
Anyone know of any museums that have X-ray photos of these type 16 arrow heads.
Like they do of the viking wolf tooth spears, axes and the serpent in the sword designs.
Vikings were experts at forge welding and pattern steel. Also user/inventors of the steel bodkin from what my research has found.
The only X-ray photo I can find of the type 16 does NOT appear to be forge welded.
Photos and article here.
http://www.evado.co.uk/Hector%20Cole/PDFs/londonmuseum16arrowhead.pdf
* credit to Hector Cole* for the article and X-ray..... when ya wanna research start with the experts.
And there is a very simple way to make these that involves no welding what so ever.
I'd wager to forge weld a item that small x3( both barbs to one cone) wouldn't work to well the way forge welding is done.
and to forge the cone base then barb point and weld them together at the cone top and inner shoulder would be just as bad if not worse.
Not saying it can't be done it's just not production savvy and they were cranking these things out back then in record numbers. 3500 alone found on that Tudor ship wreck Mary Rose.
You don't make anything by hand like that in those numbers that is disposable that takes more then a few minutes to produce .
Rich
toomanyknots:
--- Quote from: Eric Krewson on September 28, 2015, 06:01:42 pm ---Those para cord strung bows are made from PVC pipe. I have a friend who makes them, they actually shoot pretty good but aren't much in the looks department compared to a real wood bow.
--- End quote ---
Do those pvc bows actually pull warbow weight? I would imagine the handshock would be something awful.
toomanyknots:
--- Quote from: root on September 28, 2015, 08:41:44 pm ---I forge period correct sharp pointy items and other things. when I forge something from history it's historically period correct as close as possible.
--- End quote ---
I'm sure you could probably find someone to make you a bow for some good points, but as stated already your not be able to shoot warbow weight. I would opt for a light weight english longbow, something around 30# to learn with would be great for you.
DC:
--- Quote from: WillS on September 29, 2015, 09:44:10 pm ---
A good Type 16 shouldn't really have flared out fins - the barbs which are fire welded onto the socket should be incredibly close to the socket, so that they look from a distance like one solid head.
--- End quote ---
Do you know the thought behind these. Were they for armor penetration and the barbs soft so they would expand when they tried to pull them out? Or was there something in the design that caused them to expand on contact. The first dum-dums?
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