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WHere to procure EWB
WillS:
Rich, there weren't any heads at all found on the Mary Rose. The Tudor head that would have been used with arrows of that period are significantly different to a Type 16 as shown in my post.
This is a Tudor bodkin, based on the finds at Portchester Castle just down the road from where the Mary Rose sank. The original is dated to the same time period.
The expert I consider far more experienced than Hector is Mark Stretton and I've had many conversations with him regarding the Type 16. His consensus having inspected them in person numerous times is that they are indeed fire welded. You can make them by splitting the end of the point and forging them back to the socket but analysis of extant Type 16s doesn't support this, both in the metallurgy and the construction. The one in my photo was fire welded.
As for how common they were - some say very common, some say quite rare. I'm in the latter camp. They are so time consuming and expensive to manufacture that they're simply not practical for warfare. The most common type of head during the Hundred Years War would have been a Type 10, and with the development of the swage for a Tudor bodkin that would have taken the place of the Type 10.
The Type 16's barbs don't move, no. They are aerodynamic with the barbs sitting so low to the socket and once they're in, you ain't getting them out again. Most of mine have the barbs packed with stuff I simply can't remove as the design is so effective.
WillS:
This by the way is an original Tudor bodkin.
These are the ultimate mass production arrowhead. You make the socket in about 2 heats, and the point is placed into a swage and the whole shape is done in one hit and some edge grinding.
root:
Mr Stretton is a very famous person when it comes to the longbow.
World record holder and very in the "know" when it comes to the longbow.
I've also been directed to his videos over the last few months.
I DO consider him a expert.
Yes about three heats to make a arrow right now I'm using about 5 as I said I'm using a wood/charcoal fire when I make them with the blower either off or close to it. Once I have a proven consistent system down I'll use coal and probably forge them in between while I wait for other items to come up to heat.
I don't think the type 16 was a expanding arrow either. I also am pretty sure once it was in a object getting back out was a chore.
Splitting the front and forging it to design then back over the cone is how I would do it. that was the impression I got looking at the X-Ray from that article I posted. It would be the fasted most productive way to make them.
I had already thought about making a swage for the Tudor style tips. And ordered one Tudor tip yesterday. ( reverse engineer and pattern)
Also ordered a luggage scale to find the true Draw poundage of my aluminum long bow and crossbow. The bow shoots these heavy ones I made well just stuck on a aluminum shaft. It's 59 inches long and a 1/4 inch thick I make the strings 55 1/2 inches.
Draw works best with a 29 inch arrow and I can draw it to 28 inches.
R&D is time consuming and as I said before I have paying orders that I have to fill, a day job 3 days a week, and a family.
I guess like everyone I'm busy LOL!
Rich
WillS:
Charcoal is a pain ain't it. I've just finished building my Great Bellows (6ft long!) and charcoal forge, and while chatting to Mark the other day about starting he made it painfully apparent I'm gonna spend more time learning how to manage the fire than actually forging anything!
root:
--- Quote from: WillS on October 01, 2015, 11:56:08 am ---Charcoal is a pain ain't it. I've just finished building my Great Bellows (6ft long!) and charcoal forge, and while chatting to Mark the other day about starting he made it painfully apparent I'm gonna spend more time learning how to manage the fire than actually forging anything!
--- End quote ---
Yes wood/charcoal is a pain even more so with manual air. that's why I have a electric blower on a variable knob. I can adjust or shut off as needed. when I burn wood/charcoal I only burn a milk crate in a 8 to 10 hr. day. coal even less as I shut the air off when there is no iron in the fire.
Fire management is KEY to properly forging. You are smart to go with charcoal/wood/coal as it lets you move the work around to only heat the part you are working on. It's the main reason I don't use propane/gas.
As promised A pic of my two bows I currently own. These are the ones I'm making my tips for and will be making the arrows over the winter also. ( inside work)
I am trying to get a proper English long bow as we speak. ( made in England)
It's kinda like the swords I own.
You can buy a USA made Katana but it's not a true Japanese sword unless it's made in Japan.
I wonder if Mr. Stretton sells those metal electrical outlet cover templates I saw in his video last month?
I'd sure like to buy one. It would save reinventing the wheel.
I went to order the Bodkin from his site yesterday but the site was out of stock and I didn't see any Tudor ones listed. So I was forced to order elsewhere.
Pix of the bows.
Rich
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