how straight does boo shafts need to be?

[stickbender]

     Any of the above methods, are good.  I just use a heat gun, and straighten out the major bends, then go back and get the small ones with a straightener, and or a piece of 2 x 4 that I cut a round shape in the middle, and cut the side pieces down to about 13/4 inch high, so that you have a round mound, with a handle on each side.  You can place the bend of the hot shaft on the mound, and apply pressure, and hold it, and then check the bend.  Do the big ones first, then the smaller ones, and the nodes last.  Like as mentioned above, don't over heat the nodes, (or the shaft) and do not put too much pressure on them, they are the weak spot in the shaft.  I have seen videos, that recommend that you use something to knock out the center of the node, when making an arrow.  I can't for the life of me see any intelligence in that, as it just weakens a weak spot even more.  But it is done, and apparently they like it.  I don't bother the integrity of the node.  I leave well enough alone.  But just take your time, like it was mentioned above if you want instant straight, buy commercial shafts, of what ever material you like.  You can get boo very straight, and you very seldom have to re straighten them if at all. And as Pat said, as long as the two ends align, and you have your spine matched to your bow, and the stiff side to the bow, you should be fine.  Long arrows, 30" or longer, will not be so spine sensitive.

                                    Wayne

[le0n]

Has anyone ever tried heating with the grill until limp and then bundling them tight with a mix of aluminium shafts then cool?

never tried.

being that you usually have to over bend in order to have it relax back to where you want it, i'm not sure how effective the bundling would be.

I have seen videos, that recommend that you use something to knock out the center of the node, when making an arrow.  I can't for the life of me see any intelligence in that, as it just weakens a weak spot even more.  But it is done, and apparently they like it.

i thought this was to allow any moisture to leave the shaft vs. having it in those chambers while heating. not sure if this only applies to the fresher bamboo that hasn't completely dried.

[Pat B]

Straightening cane is a slow process for me. I like to start with 6 or more canes. I take one and heat the worst part, either at a node or internode, which ever is worse. I heat(over our gas cook stove) the area and get it straight then lay the cane on a flat surface and start on the next one. When they are all cool, I'll go to the next area and so on. Usually I'll start with the nodes, get them all straight then move on to the internode areas. Sometimes this goes on for a day or two. If you don't allow an area to cool completely you risk re-bending previously straightened areas to where they started.

[Lefty8917]

I do as stickbender and Pat B do, I start at the major bends first. As many have said, its a pain straightning bamboo but the end result is beautiful. I like to use my table vice in this process. Ill put the part I want to bend right outside of the jaws of the vice. Ill take my heat gun and slowly heat the area, whether it be small or large. As im applying heat Ill start to apply pressure to the bamboo in the direction it needs bent. Once its hot enough you can feel it bend at will, and once its in place Ill rub it down with a cold wet rag to quickin the cooling process. And Ill just repeat until I can look down the arrow, spin it, and looks straight.

[Knoll]

. . . a piece of 2 x 4 that I cut a round shape in the middle, and cut the side pieces down to about 13/4 inch high, so that you have a round mound, with a handle on each side.  You can place the bend of the hot shaft on the mound, and apply pressure, and hold it, and then check the bend.

                                    Wayne

Wayne . .  got pics?

[DC]

I've posted these before but just in case
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_5Ha1qyFDo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VK5INvoNTdk