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Starting dimensions for yew warbow

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WillS:
No doubt leaving excess is the safe choice!  I've only been brave enough to cut to final dimensions on bows I'm not particularly bothered about, or ones I think will blow up anyway due to bad knots, rot etc.  Reasonable tiller success on those ones however, using that method! 

Definitely not something to take seriously when marking out a "proper" bow!  ;D

Del the cat:
I think there is some confusion here.
I've plotted WillS's average thickness figures. You can see that they do NOT give a linear taper. Thus as I said in my original post, a linear taper is good for roughing out.
The final taper is steeper near the tip.
If you use a linear taper you will have slightly stiff, ugly, heavy tips
I hope this clarifies it.
Del

WillS:
Remember I'm saying these work for beginning a tiller and roughing out a bow.  I'm not saying you can use that taper calculation to mark out a bow, fit the nocks, polish it and put it on eBay for sale.

For starters, the formula assumes the actual end of the bow stave is half inch, which gives you a thicker limb tip.  Once you've come back far enough to fit the nocks, made it 1/2" there and blended and reduced the limb tip accordingly, you're getting close.

Ruddy Darter:
Thanks for those tips chaps, I got a roll of scrap wallpaper to draw out a profile to see what it looks like first off, I'll sketch it out  until I get something looking right for a start out plan and then copy the measurements accordingly.


 Ruddy Darter.

mikekeswick:
I use a linear taper to rough out then I look at how it bends......;)

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