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tip tips please

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WillS:
Here's one I made earlier  ;D  It was for a 135lb bow and designed to be used with a linen string.



And this is what the wooden tip looks like, if you imagine the horn is removed



stuckinthemud:
Thanks Wills, that couldn't be any clearer. Looks like I need to re-profile my drill bit. Ironically, my first effort pretty much matched your example except I'd blunted the end by a tiny amount. Shouldn't have got so enthusiastic with the rasp, should have marked the taper on the horn. All good experience, I suppose...

WillS:
Funnily enough, loads of the MR bows have blunted ends.  Some are squared off, and quite a few are cut at upwards tapers, which shows that they either poked through the horn nock and were simply chopped off to be flush with the horn, or were carefully tweaked to fit the natural hollow in the cow horn when the bone core fell out.

One thing to note if you are interested, is that the nocks on both ends were cut at different angles.  Presumably the top one had a fixed loop, and the bottom a knot or running loop depending on the string material (hemp won't take a running loop but linen will) so if you're fussy about particulars and want to go for the loop - knot approach that's a nice extra touch.

colin1991:
I'd say the fact that all the nocks would have been blended into the limbs similarly and been kept small in conjunction with thicker, natural fibre strings would account for the coincidence... Would you not agree Will?

WillS:
No  ;D

I believe the choice to go down into the wood was deliberate.  It also makes the nocks way safer if they're glued with something that isn't particularly robust.  If the string is locked to both the horn and the wooden tip and the glue fails or gets too damp, the nock can't rotate or slip.  If it's just cut into the horn there's nothing stopping it spinning on the tip. 

It does also help the infamous theory about removable nocks, but I am definitely not going there...  In fact imagine I never mentioned it. :-X 8)

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