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the real ticket is "group tuning"

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willie:
OK, I stole TSA's comment from another thread to start a new one.


--- Quote ---in my experience,  bareshaft and fletched arrows will tell the same story just differently.

where a bareshaft will say throw the nock left( so kinda point right!), that will indicate a weak shaft, whereas the same weak, but fletched shafts will impact to the left, this is due to the stabilisation factor of the fletches.
so if your FLETCHED shafts, as a grouping are impacting to the right, yes that is stiff, if you stripped the feathers off, that bare shaft would show nock right, and point left!
 
however bareshafting can really expose errors in your shooting form, and so, in turn, tell lies!
make sure your form is good, take your time, shoot slowly- dont fatigue- even use a clicker just for the tuning- focus on your release. ( or look up Rick Welch and his method of shooting- its a fool proof way of ensuring the same drawlength and same back tension ever time!!)

-dont cant the bow
-shoot groupings
-start close- otherwise you will break shafts!!!

i like to get in the ball park with the bareshafts, thereafter i follow Adcocks advice,
the real ticket is "group tuning" shoot a group of bareshafts and a group of fletched shafts, and get the final points of impact the same- use groups, 3 or 4 shafts!
http://www.acsbows.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/tuninglongbowsandrecurves.pdf
--- End quote ---


My question is how reasonable is it to expect to be able to bareshaft tune and shoot to point of aim with a wide handle type arrowpass as typically found on a primitive bow?

Pat B:
With properly spined arrows it is as simple as with a center shot bow. Typically for a wide handle bow you will want to start with arrows spined about 10# lighter than the draw weight.

TSA:
hey Willie,
i know its counterintuitive when thinking about the wider arrow pass and that the shafts will impact the same.
but Like Pat says, the further from center you go- the lighter spine you need to shoot, and the closer to( or cut  past center) center- the stiffer the shaft required.
so for most self bows about 10# lighter than your bow, and cut closer to center about 10 to 15# heavier than your bow, now this all changes with drawlength and arrow length.


now if someone could tell me how to post pics from the pc, i can post all the spine charts here! :D

willie:
Thanks Pat and Wayne. I think that I understand the need for the lighter spine required to get around the width of the handle.
The point of aim of my arrow head is offset quite a bit to the left of the bow centerline.with a wide handle. If I adjust my bareshaft spine so that I am shooting to point of aim, what should i do about nock left or nock right?

Wayne, you can attach jpg, png, etc by clicking    - Attachments and other options , then browse

Pat B:
Willie, at full draw your arrow point should be pointing at your target or at least close.

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