Main Discussion Area > Horn Bows

First attempt build a long !

<< < (2/18) > >>

Stick Bender:
Ok thanks Ed I need to make one of those forms like yours I believe yours was a Torges style form if I remember right, I found a padded adjustable leaver type clamp that can be screwed to a board and making some shims to put under the horn for straitening , if I can get this horn more strait & double back tape it to a flat board would any body see any problem running it threw a conveyer type drum sander ? I could at least get them closer with one side flat it would follow that thickness or maybe use hot glue to glue them down & then file to final thickness kinda like the way the guys that make lam bows do it ? Also need to pick up some rubber bands or old bicycle tubes but other then smooth on I have every thing else I need I think , Ed when you used your belt sander did you remove the stop so you could use the whole belt ? From my best guess at this point looks like I can get 16 in at 1 3/8 width or 17 1/2 at 1 1/4 width . Thinking 45-47 lb at 29 1/4 ! Might be able to split the width difference 1 5/16 won't know tell I get them down !

BowEd:
Ritch....A 1 and 5/16" wide is enough.If you can cover at least 3/4er's of the width of the belly you should be ok.If you can get more length then that's better yet.If not the length sounds ok too.You might need to butt joint on the ends somewhere where it's not working too much to get more length.
I know a fella who used a drum sander thinning horn.It did work but I would'nt reccommend it really.I prefer to do it more slowly on the belt sander if that sounds good....lol.An overall crowning of the surface is what you should have too and a drum sander does'nt lend itself to that very well.All that should be done by hand with a fine file or sand paper.Getting a strong 1/8" thickness maybe 3/16" for at least a 6"to 8" length should do the job.Feathering out to 1/16" thick on the thin end towards the tip.
I should mention performance wise Marc has done closely these types of bows without horn but either way a pristene piece of wood should be used.A good compression strong wood should be used then if that narrow.Without horn the core should be wider.
For the type bow you want there I'll send you a diagram of dimensions in the mail tomorrow & you can call me anytime too.

Stick Bender:
Ok thanks Ed  & thanks for the specs but if you want to take a pic of them & send email that would work too save you the stamp & trouble if you want, well I really got to get them thinner to find out what I got I really want to keep it one horn per limb if I can on this first one but will butt if I have to , I was in the shop this morning figuring out how to make my quick release clamp horn straitening fixture this project will keep me out of trouble for the winter...lol still have my croaker bladder glue to make too , I will use the belt sander then I think I'm taking the material stop off it so I can use the whole surface !

mikekeswick:
Try and get rid of those cracks on the outer surface. They can run deep and sometimes you can't tell until you start working them.
No problem using the drum sander, it is a very accurate and dependable method. I actually stick my horn to a thick piece of ply with hide glue, do the thinning and tapering. Then whilst still stuck to the board I establish the centreline and do the grooving. It was one of the best ideas I ever had! You can also use a taper sled to establish the taper on the horn.
Don't worry about getting the longest possible set of horns, go for wider rather than longer BUT you really should get rid of all natural grooving on the outer surface before doing anything else, don't trust that you will be able to remove it all once glued to the core. All it takes is one hidden crack....

Stick Bender:
Ok thanks Mike that's a good idea whith the hide glue & water salable too ,easy to get off , I'm going to make up some ply feed tables for them after straitening at least get them close the taper jig is a good idea to get close, with needing to crown them I will do the final dimensioning by hand, I was going to pick up a commercial taper lam as a pateren for the taper matching Eds specs  thanks for the input !

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page