Main Discussion Area > Horn Bows
First attempt build a long !
Stick Bender:
Non matching how about you ? And Im using smooth on ,you ? I think Ed if I remember right didnt use any groving at all with smooth on Im probably going to just ruff up the surfaces with 50 grit like the glass guys do , I think Adam mentioned in his book that matching grooves are a moderen addaption he never found any historical evedence for it , I think down the line I would like to try the magyar style like you, they seem to be Idealy suited for the WB horn , Hey Aaron did you end up getting yellow croaker bladders for glue ? Im using elk or moose sinew on this one I havent got around to making the bladder glue yet ! also are you tappering your horn ?
Aaron H:
Matching grooves, with fish bladder glue and rawhide glue. You are correct, there is no evidence of matching grooves being used before 1930.
I ended up getting some sturgeon bladders from Bulgaria, I can give you a contact if you want it. Croaker bladders would work probably just a well at half the cost of the sturgeon, but they say sturgeon is the best of the best when it comes to air bladder glue. I used it for peace of mind.
And yes, I tapered my horn from 5mm at the grip to 4.5mm at the base of the siyahs. 15" long horn, 48-49" ttt bow
Stick Bender:
Ok I just remembered you where asking a while back on the yellow croaker bladders I'm just going to use that and high grade hide glue combo on the sinew I think if I were doing traditional glue up like you on the horn I would look to the sturgeon glue ,to that bow sounds nice ,what weight 65-70 lb there just guessing from your horn ? Look forward to you posting , I'm letting the sinew cure 16-18 weeks when I get there good luck there !
Aaron H:
Good guess, I'm hoping for anywhere from 50-70# if it makes it at all
mikekeswick:
Any good quality glue is good enough. The main reason for using croaker glue is a longer 'open' time before gelling. Hide glue gels too fast for me but then it is never above 20 degs in my workshop, now I have a hard time getting it above 12 - 14 degs so the slower gelling glues are needed. Like I said don't worry about the strength of the bond with any collagen glue.
Bow length divided by 1.5 will give a drawlength. 62/1.5 = 41.3 inches.....:) I hear what you are saying about length/playing it safe etc honestly there is no need to play safe by under stressing the materials...they can take it and more. Sinew/wood/horn is a truly amazing combo after working with wood and all its limitations ;) You are highly unlikely to break a hornbow that is well made. Making it well made is the hard bit haha!
Put your sinew on in 1 mm thick layers, 2 weeks drying inbetween layers, sand with 80 grit inbetween layers and you can safely forgo the lengthy waiting times. I totally agree that if you put on thick layers you do need to wait - thickness in mm squared - weeks. With the 1mm layers it really doesn't matter.
I would advise against wrapping a composites sinew layer, it is essential that there is enough glue in the matrix if not it could go bang...wrapping was not used on the old bows and they seem to be doing fine with beautiful aligned and flat sinew. It is all technique :) The Korean method of sinewing has a lot going for it. Excess weight is much better removed from the non bending sections.
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