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Help on warbow/longbow tiller - first post! / now with pics...

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Badger:
  The top bow looks a lot better this morning than it did last night. I think it was my eyes. I still prefer a little more elliptical tiller,

Del the cat:
IMO the problem with the term "elliptical" is it doesn't say what shape ellipse or how far round the elliptical curve.
See pic, two ellipses and two different arcs marked (red lines and blue lines)... pretty meaningless.
To further illustrate the point. If we take the original pic of the bow, everyone seems to think the tips should come round more, well this can be illustrated with a circle or a much smaller ellipse either of which give a very similar result!
My real point is a circle is always circular whereas an ellipse has a totally unspecified shape....
Del

Badger:
   I have always felt the same way about the word elliptical being ambiguous. If I were to describe my preferred tiller I would say I like the middle 8 or 10" slightly stiffer and I like the last 10" of the limb barely flexing. I find if I get too circular the bows tend to feel more shocky.

Haary84:
Thank you for your replies! Nice to hear that I didn't mess it up. ;D

I already read this thing with circles and ellipses on another thread. Does it make a big difference if one uses the back and not the belly as a guide for the graphic analysis? As I did this with coreldraw I used the back and it appeared to be more a circle than an ellipse. But maybe I wasn't accurate enough ::) Is there a reason why you choose the belly for the analysis?

I got some more questions.

This is the strain/run/whatever- I don't know how its called in english. Have you ever seen something like this? It isn't a crack, but the wood appears to be different than the rest. At least it doesn't accept the boiled linseed oil as well as the rest of the wood. You know what this is and how its called? Should I avoid something like this next time?



Is boiled linseed oil a good surface treatment or is there something better out there?

Another thing- the ends of my limbs ended up beeing pretty square and not round. Is there a way to achieve a better transition between nock and limb? The conical hole is round for shure. And the limb is almost square- I couldn't manage it to combine those two shapes...Maybe I already messed the thing up at the start. First I drilled a pilot hole into the horn, then drilled with the conical shaped spade drill bit, made a fitting dowel and ground the nock as I liked on the belt sander. Then fitted the limbs to the conical shaped holes of the nocks.
I don't like the epoxy on the shoulder of the nock. But I had to use it- otherwise there would have been a big gap around the nock. Any ideas how I can improve that on my next build? I already read that buffalo horn isn't the best bet for nocks. Is it worth to use cow horn? Is antler an alternative?



Thank you very much in advance. I really appreciate your help!

DC:
Make the end of the bow round and use a smaller nock?

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