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How to build a frame to stretch deer, bear hides?

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bjrogg:
Well that's my question. I have a few deer and bear hides that I want to flesh and tan. I'm thinking I might like to get set up nice to dry scrape the deer hides and thinking the first thing I need to do is build a frame to stretch my hides while I work on them.
Any suggestions? Things you did you liked or didn't like? Size, materials, how to lace and stretch. I have some treated 6x6's that I save from a old building to took down. I think mostly I'm wondering about methods for using rope or whatever to stretch the hides. I'd like something simple but that would be reusable. At this point I'm thinking just deer and bear but possibly someday something else.
Thanks Bjrogg

paulsemp:
Mine are just made out of two-by-fours. Nothing fancy and I nail one across Each corner to stiffen it up. plus the diagonal across the corner gives you a good angle to stretch from. I would not use six by sixes. I would make it as physically light as possible so you can move it with ease

bjrogg:
Thanks Paul. Did you lean against wall? Or make it free standing? I'm thinking I could end up using this one a fair amount. I really like fur and hides. I've been doing fur for along time now. Maybe more than one light frame that fits into a stand for working? Did you individually stretch each rope? Or use a continuous rope? I'm guessing individual ropes would be best but that would seem to need some type of toggle to go through hole in hide and some way to keep rope tight until you remove hide?
Any advice appreciated thanks
Bjrogg

BowEd:
Ditto what paulsemp says there.The size of them is up to you.Big deer inside dimensions 6'6' tall by  5.6' wide will take care of most of them.You can figure it out I'm sure.I've seen your skills.Years ago when I was getting a steady supply from the rendering plant I had 4 frames I think.A regular assembly line of different sized frames.
For rope to lace them in I liked parachute cord bulk supply.It's nylon/does'nt tangle/knot and twist into knots very quick.Does'nt rot.Just don't get around the lawn mower blade shaft though....lol.Pretty cheap stuff from that magazine catalog the Sportsmans Guide I think every hunter has gotten in their lifetime or get it on line.Pretty cheap stuff.I like using 30' lengths to lace animals in a frame then knot another length on.Being nylon the knots come out with little persuasion for ease but still will hold a knot yet too to stretch the hide.
150 to 200 feet will easily lace a hide in.That length depends on the size of the hide lacing in.
I should of done a video on lacing hides into frame.I lace it in loosely first to center it then tighten it a few times around to keep it centered.I cut holes with a pearing  knife/pocket knife 1/2" wide parallel with the edge a good inch or so in from the edge "not perpendicular" [it'll tear out] every 6" for sure or less to get a good nice even stretch overall.
The most tender part of the hide is either side of the tail.The hide around the anus.Be carefull stretching too hard there.The most toughest...the neck of course.
I'll take a pic of a nostalgic type I made out of osage saplings.All areas of intersections are notched interfitting with screws to lock it in.It's the one I use the most except for special type hides like cattle or something.I'm caught up with my deer hides lately.Still working on getting another.I'm a fair weather brain tanner nowadays so if I get one now it'll have to get dressed and smoked next spring.Too cold now.Used to do them in the basement of the old farm house by a wood stove all winter long.You must have a heated area to do yours?

Hawkdancer:
I use 4x4s about 6' long, notched and lashed together.  Para cord is handy, I prefer shorter lengths, a bit easier for me to handle.  For an elk hide I go to 7-8'. Lodge pole salvage lengths.  Otherwise I agree with BoeEd & Paulsemp.
Hawkdancer

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