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Arrow making process - questions

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FilipT:
Usually I don't post on this part of forum but since I will start making my own arrows for a first time and have some confusions, I figured I will post that here among the experienced fletchers.
I have access to materials/parts, I have made spine tester and downloaded dynamic spine calculator but can't for some reason wrap myself around the idea in what order do I make arrows! TBB vol 3. offers info but I am not completely sure.

Is this what the process looks like? Please feel free to correct me.  :OK

1. Do I use wooden shaft of desired length (for example 31") and put it on a spine tester to measure its static spine?

2. Is the next step putting arrow together and measuring its weight?

3. Inputting all the information in the dynamic spine calculator?

4. When I get dynamic spine am I finally ready to sort arrows suitable for my desired bow and those weaker/stronger put away for some other bows?

Tnx

DC:
You can adjust the static spine by reducing the diameter but you probably knew that. :D
Another thing. The best way to test dynamic spine is by shooting the arrow.

willie:
If you are making the arrows from a board or stave, I suggest just making your arrow with a thumb plane and reduce as needed until it flies right for you. you might use spine measurements to help duplicate more arrows. reduce the middle third to control spine, and reduce the outer thirds to match weight. you can easily play with various tapers.  (price a commercial barrelled shaft  :o)

a lot of what you read about "making" arrows could be better called "assembling" arrows from off the shelf components, where one has to make selections from different grades of parts. The dynamic calculator is a good example of this method as it actually list commonly available components.

Tracker0721:
I do it a bit different. I plug in my desired demensions to the calculator, tip weight, length, material, 3 feathers, etc. and use that to figure out which arrow weight to match my bow. I use 3rivers dynamic spine calculator. You do bow and arrow all at once and get the 2 numbers. Than I go whittle some sticks that I cut from a fir board and Once its round I check spine. It seems the right ringed boards I usually pick are always in the 70-80s so I chuck the arrow into a drill and sand it with most the sanding in the center to drop spine. And I’ll do that till I’m within a couple pounds than use fine grit paper to get it spot on. But remember the calculator gets you close, do 3 arrows at first and then test and refine before doing a batch. And write down the info of which bow likes what! I weigh at the end and usually they’re all close enough. I have a chronic for velocity.

FilipT:
Just to mention, I will be using beech dowels. They have really good grain and are straight. I was told that they would be suitable.

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