Author Topic: Red oak pyramid  (Read 591 times)

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Offline jasam

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Red oak pyramid
« on: June 14, 2018, 05:28:25 am »
Just got a nice straight grained red oak board. Anybody got dimensions for a 68 50-60lb draw pyramid bow? Or maybe a link to a build a long? Thanks

Offline hicklife1989

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Re: Red oak pyramid
« Reply #1 on: June 14, 2018, 10:14:02 am »
http://poorfolkbows.com he has good build along believe it is primed bow you don't have to back it like he does you can back it differently

Offline ty_in_ND

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Re: Red oak pyramid
« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2018, 01:23:15 pm »
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html

Here's a good one to follow along for a pyramid board bow.
"The best prize that life has to offer is the chance to work hard at work worth doing."

Offline Mafort

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Re: Red oak pyramid
« Reply #3 on: June 14, 2018, 03:48:25 pm »
could one recurve with steam and then back this kind of bow with rawhide??? i ask because i dont know if red oak could handle the added strain of the recurve.

Offline bubby

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Re: Red oak pyramid
« Reply #4 on: June 14, 2018, 06:46:08 pm »
2"wide at the fades, 2" fades and a 4" grip. 1" wide at both ends of the grip and 1-1/4" wide in the center, start with the limbs 1/2" thick and tiller from there
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline Springbuck

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Re: Red oak pyramid
« Reply #5 on: June 15, 2018, 12:33:36 pm »
could one recurve with steam and then back this kind of bow with rawhide???

Yes, or linen.

Offline Springbuck

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Re: Red oak pyramid
« Reply #6 on: June 15, 2018, 01:00:27 pm »
  Go with what Bubby said.  You can even go wider, but 68" is nice and long. 

    I'm assuming you have a 4/4 board, about 3/4" thick.  You'll want to add a handle block (or "riser") to build up the grip.  Adding another 3/4" board will give you 1-1/2", which is about perfect.

  First, mark the physical middle of the bow, place your middle finger on that mark, and make the handle five fingers wide; the middle finger, plus two above and two below.  That'll be 4-5" for most people.

   Narrow your handle to 1-1/8" wide or smaller, and maybe leave a little lateral bulge like Bubby said mid-grip.  Looking from the front, make your limbs flare from the narrow handle to the wide limbs 45 degrees or less.

  Make your fades (thickness taper from thickest handle to flat limbs) 2" long or so.   Flares will overlap the fades a bit, but fades should extend out longer by way more than an inch. 

  Side taper the limbs from full width to 1/2" or less at the tips.  Leave yourself some wiggle room.

    Once it's all marked out, work the limbs down to about 1/2" thickness from the fades out to the tips, and start tillering from there.

Offline jasam

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Re: Red oak pyramid
« Reply #7 on: June 15, 2018, 02:56:19 pm »
Thanks for all the feedback fellas. Ill keep yall posted.

Offline bubby

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Re: Red oak pyramid
« Reply #8 on: June 16, 2018, 07:22:12 am »
This is a great design, the bow I built in that build a long is still shooting with about a half inch set.
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹