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Dogwood Arrows
BowEd:
.All air will leave from inside the tip indicated by the oozing of glue out of the two 1/16" holes
Bill....I drill the holes completely through both sides.Somewhere along the way in the middle of your field tip.Thought I would try it years ago and it definitely works for me for keeping the glue on points shot into any kind of 3D foam.There is some tough 3D foam out there.My tips stay on bud.I use a proper tapering tool on the shaft tip also for matching to put on glue-on tips.I've never needed to pin them to the shaft though.
I believe it's because there is total surface area contact of metal and wood with glue in between.
PS....The reality of this solution of mine is that most 3D tournament shoots are dominated by the compounders.So Targets are made tougher yet to accomodate and handle the 9/32" to 5/16" carbon shafts going 300 fps the compounders shoot.They have screw on tips locked on with lock tite too.The traditional fellas I shoot with still go to the 3D shoots anyway.I realize not everybody does this though too.So goes progress right?
BowEd:
Tinker....Making a complete set of 12 shoot shafts can take me a whole weekend.You can go as primitive along the way as you like.I can have close to 1.5 hour in time into each shaft,but in the end can have only pennies of investment into each shaft.That's harvesting your own of course.I know they are tougher than my DF's or other split timber shafts of mine.Right up there with bamboo in toughness degree.
I make plain Jane type shafts with no painting or staining put onto them myself but some others do a great job of doing that also.Each to his own.
I use gasket lacquer coating with echo dipper for a finish and then ducco glue for glueing on feathers using an Arizona fletcher.The combo of gasket lacquer and ducco is an excellent bond.My feathers don't come off either.Even after being submerged in water for some time or in heavily dewed grass.
PS....With that long of draw at 34" it's going to be hard with natural materials to stay away from higher massed arrow shafts,but it's doable.
Danzn Bar:
--- Quote from: BowEd on July 31, 2018, 07:38:55 am ---PS....With that long of draw at 34" it's going to be hard with natural materials to stay away from higher massed arrow shafts,but it's doable.
--- End quote ---
Hey Tinker
I got some Tonkin cane from eddie (mullet) at the classic a few years back that would be great for your draw lenght. Small diameter and very stiff.
Check out the tonkin cane for your draw length. It's a little time consuming straighting but well worth the effort.
I have had some luck straighting cane in the past, I be up for some kinda trade with the beautiful tin stuff you do. Just let me know.
DBar
Tinker:
--- Quote from: Danzn Bar on July 31, 2018, 01:08:29 pm ---
--- Quote from: BowEd on July 31, 2018, 07:38:55 am ---PS....With that long of draw at 34" it's going to be hard with natural materials to stay away from higher massed arrow shafts,but it's doable.
--- End quote ---
Hey Tinker
I got some Tonkin cane from eddie (mullet) at the classic a few years back that would be great for your draw lenght. Small diameter and very stiff.
Check out the tonkin cane for your draw length. It's a little time consuming straighting but well worth the effort.
I have had some luck straighting cane in the past, I be up for some kinda trade with the beautiful tin stuff you do. Just let me know.
DBar
--- End quote ---
I will look into the cane. I have a patch here at home along the creek, but it will be several months before I dare to cut any. I can see a possible trade.
Tinker:
If I'm understanding Ed properly, he is saying to fletch the fat end of the arrow shaft and place the polnt on the skinnier end. I was told by another individual at Mojam to do the opposite. I can reduce weight a little bit at a time by sanding then shoot it to test.
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