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Time to make arrows

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TSA:
so sad to see all that work broken. :(
if you would like i am sure i could find a piece of sitka of appropriate size to send down to you.

Bareshafting is a scary moment with ANY wooden shafts.
if i can offer any advice it would be to start waaay close to the target, and start trimming- i have attached a bareshafting video- its the best  i have yet seen, its in the link below.

i made the same mistake- years ago when i started bareshafting, i figured if i got back far enough, the energy left in the arrow would be reduced enough that it would not break the shaft, how wrong i was!!! they are so far out of alignment by the time they get to the target- that they break off- even if they are only a bit off- it surely makes one realize how important a job the fletching does!

its counter intuitive- if you start really close- the shaft is not that far out of alignment when it impacts the target, so doesnt snap off as easily, then slowly work your way back.
yes the "paradox" does effect it a bit, but it works, i start at 3'

another way is to get the shafts close, but a wee bit long, get them all fletched up- the start broadhead group tuning- even if you dont plan on hunting, even though its a grouping exercise, i still shoot one shaft at a time- thre field points, circle the grouping, then 3 broadheads circle the grouping, and start trimming until the groups are one.
http://www.trueshaftarchery.com/tuning-the-bow.html

DC:
I've watched that video many times and yes, it's good but his first shot is just an inch or so off. He had the spine very very close before he took the first shot. That's where I'm having the problems. Getting it close to start with is tough. Especially when you're fiddling with weight. Everything seems to be based on a tip weight of 125 grains and I would like to use a lot less than that. If I want to use a 50 gr tip that should mean that I should spine my arrows 15# lighter(I think) That's a big jump. Thanks for the offer of wood but I'll look around here first. I hate the idea of putting money in the shipping companies pockets. If there is anyone that makes money off the internet it's them. I'll check the dry land sorts first. I got that nice old growth hemlock from them, maybe they'll have some spruce.

Woodely:
A professional arrow maker says that he tapers the last 10" of the nock end having more FOC and claims this helps big time.  I have started doing some tapering but not that much. What you guys think.. ?

DC:
It's supposed to make them more forgiving of spine. I've always shot bamboo which comes pre tapered ;D and when ever I made wood arrows I tapered them to get rid of weight without affecting the spine so I've never shot parallel arrows to compare it.

TSA:
Woodely,
i have cut and pasted this from some info i am starting to collate for our website.
its very disjointed, and in point form...kinds!
but there may be some info in there that you can use.
also here is a link to a page that does some very technical analysis of back tapered shafts.
for the longest time , i have always attributed the improvement in performance to the increase in FOC, but it goes a lot deeper than that.

this link was posted on this forum a little while ago, i found it fascinating and highly informative, so we made contact with the original author, and acquired his permission to publish it on our site.

http://www.trueshaftarchery.com/technical-information-1.html



and heres the "cut n' paste"

FOC

Low is 0-7%
Normal 7-12%
High 12-19%
Efoc 20-30 % - (extreme  FOC)
UEFOC 30% +  (ultra extreme FOC)

The greater the foc, the stiffer the  spine required
The greater the foc, the longer the control arm, the smaller the fletches required
Higher foc will effect long range trajectory- closer to 0% foc will improve long  distance trajectory- this has to do with the angle of attitude of the projectile changing as the velocity reduces in flight.

EXAMPLE
50# longbow @28” = 50-55 shafts
Cut to 30.25” to give a length of 29”to BOP
With 125gr pt
With 11 gpi shafts (380gr@34”)

Will produce a 500 gr finished arrow or 10gr per pound of draw.

Will give FOC of 13%

           HOWEVER
taper back 9” to 5/16 will give FOC of 14.3%
Taper back and add 200 gr pt =FOC of 20%




Weights on arrows.
3 x 4” fletches -10gr
3 x 5.5” fletches -13gr
Glue – 3gr
Snap on 11/32 – 17gr
Snap on 5/16 – 12gr
Urethane finish - 6gr per coat
Cap wrap – 10gr
Cresting – 5gr

Remember: adding weight to the back of the arrow, will make the arrow behave stiffer

Tail taper reduces weight of shaft by 8-10gr ( 11/32 to 5/16 over 9”)

reducing weight on the back- improves FOC, but also makes the arrow behave weaker


Lightest scenario-
fletches – 10gr
Glue     -  3gr
5/16 nock -12 gr

tail taper (subtract 10 gr)

total rear mass of 15 gr

Heaviest scenario
Fletches - 13 gr
Glue - 3gr
11/32 nock -17gr
Cap wrap - 10gr
Cresting – 5gr
Total rear mass of 38gr       that’s 2.5 times heavier!!!!
that’s a 23gr difference.

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