Main Discussion Area > Horn Bows
My horn bow build-a-long
DC:
--- Quote from: bownarra on February 17, 2020, 01:29:37 am ---The teplics are the wrong shape. They should have a slightly tighter radius than the strung bow. Don't heat the sals there is no need whatsoever and you will reduce the performance too much. This is what I meant about breaking cores :) Don't bend the bow over them.
I'm sorry but I was going to take some pictures of my pegboard for you. All the other stuff i'm busy with kicked that thought out of my mind....I will definitely take some pics for you as soon as I get back in from my morning run.
You want the pegs to sit at or just past the kasan eye.
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Thanks for the picks. :D
I figured the tepliks were the wrong shape but how do you know ahead of time what the strung shape is going to be?
Don't bend the bow over what, the tepliks? I thought that's what they were for??
If I don't heat them, how do I get rid of the ugly bend.
I've had trouble understanding the tillering process with these bows.
So with the peg board you don't use tepliks at all and the kasan eye is the thinnest part of the limb?
Sorry for all the questions but this is the important part, right? ;D
So if this was a peg board the pegs should be where the black dots are?
bownarra:
Indeed.....you have hit the nail on the head with the teplics shape! I can dig out a pair I have used in the past and take some pictures. Another way is to scale up a picture of a strung bow of similar length to yours.
Yes I mean those teplics. That is what they are for but they must be the right shape or else you run a strong risk of breaking the core under the sinew.
I don't see what ugly bend you mean. There is nothing wrong with the unstrung shape. The sals will straighten with use. Do not heat them ever unless there is twist in them when the bow is strung/drawn. However it is unlikely that the bow will be twisted in the sals. Normally it is the kasan eye.
When I use the pegboard I simply bend the bow on it progressively further, checking for twist/weak spots as you go, until you can string it. Once strung any twist will be apparent. Correctly shaped teplics allow the bow to be strung for the first time with good control. If a new bow is twisted and the limbs out of balance the first time it is strung it will act like a living thing haha. The teplics get around this. I find now that I have done a few of these they are generally pretty close to good tiller the first time I bend them so the process tends to go easily enough. For my latest round of heavy bows I have made a press using a boat winch.
Right :)
And finally yes that would be about right for the peg positioning.
Good luck and ask away if you think I can help.
gorazd:
I "tried" the shape of the tepelics ,..... bending the future core only - same width and thickness of the bamboo core around it... around 5mm bamboo core
The core survived .... so there was no problem with finished bow too during the first bending :)
--- Quote from: bownarra on February 17, 2020, 01:01:45 pm ---Indeed.....you have hit the nail on the head with the teplics shape! I can dig out a pair I have used in the past and take some pictures. Another way is to scale up a picture of a strung bow of similar length to yours.
Yes I mean those teplics. That is what they are for but they must be the right shape or else you run a strong risk of breaking the core under the sinew.
I don't see what ugly bend you mean. There is nothing wrong with the unstrung shape. The sals will straighten with use. Do not heat them ever unless there is twist in them when the bow is strung/drawn. However it is unlikely that the bow will be twisted in the sals. Normally it is the kasan eye.
When I use the pegboard I simply bend the bow on it progressively further, checking for twist/weak spots as you go, until you can string it. Once strung any twist will be apparent. Correctly shaped teplics allow the bow to be strung for the first time with good control. If a new bow is twisted and the limbs out of balance the first time it is strung it will act like a living thing haha. The teplics get around this. I find now that I have done a few of these they are generally pretty close to good tiller the first time I bend them so the process tends to go easily enough. For my latest round of heavy bows I have made a press using a boat winch.
Right :)
And finally yes that would be about right for the peg positioning.
Good luck and ask away if you think I can help.
--- End quote ---
bownarra:
--- Quote from: gorazd on February 17, 2020, 01:39:15 pm ---
I "tried" the shape of the tepelics ,..... bending the future core only - same width and thickness of the bamboo core around it... around 5mm bamboo core
The core survived .... so there was no problem with finished bow too during the first bending :)
--- Quote from: bownarra on February 17, 2020, 01:01:45 pm ---Indeed.....you have hit the nail on the head with the teplics shape! I can dig out a pair I have used in the past and take some pictures. Another way is to scale up a picture of a strung bow of similar length to yours.
Yes I mean those teplics. That is what they are for but they must be the right shape or else you run a strong risk of breaking the core under the sinew.
I don't see what ugly bend you mean. There is nothing wrong with the unstrung shape. The sals will straighten with use. Do not heat them ever unless there is twist in them when the bow is strung/drawn. However it is unlikely that the bow will be twisted in the sals. Normally it is the kasan eye.
When I use the pegboard I simply bend the bow on it progressively further, checking for twist/weak spots as you go, until you can string it. Once strung any twist will be apparent. Correctly shaped teplics allow the bow to be strung for the first time with good control. If a new bow is twisted and the limbs out of balance the first time it is strung it will act like a living thing haha. The teplics get around this. I find now that I have done a few of these they are generally pretty close to good tiller the first time I bend them so the process tends to go easily enough. For my latest round of heavy bows I have made a press using a boat winch.
Right :)
And finally yes that would be about right for the peg positioning.
Good luck and ask away if you think I can help.
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You could do it that way but only with a thin core or bamboo. Also when you add horn and sinew the taper rate will change and so the curve too.
Russ:
question... how do you tiller a horn bow???
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