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Arrow-fix for foreshafting?

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Mesophilic:
Sorry if this has come up before, but I did try the search function to no avail.

I have an Arrow-fix tool already and have used it mostly to repair wood arrows that break just behid  glue on field points.  This is a two part question.

1) is the joint made with the arrow-fix strong enough to glue up foreshafts of dissimilar woods?  Example: could I safely do say a 6 inch foreshaft of a harder wood like hickory to a softer wood like douglas fir?

2) how far down the shaft would you trust the joint produced by the tool?  I'm concerned about the joint not holding and getting a shaft through my hand or forearm.  I personally don't trust the joint enough to take two broken shafts, spliced in the middle to make a serviceable shaft, with the jojnt bing in the high stress areas, but maybe I'm over thinking it?

I love everything about douglas fir except fixing them when I hit a rock and it brakes off just behind the point.  So I'm thinking that the next batch I would like try something a little tougher behind the point.   I really don't want the added weight of a tougher wood, and don't have the tools to do properly footed shafts. 

Pat B:
I'm not familiar with that "fixer" but if it is a taper fitted into a tapered socket then yes, it will work with dissimilar woods. I have arrows that Art Butner made for me that are cane with maple foreshafts that are very strong. Not sure what glue Art used, maybe super glue, maybe TBIII but they are very strong. I don't think I'd use it near the center of the shaft because that is where most of the bend is when the arrow is shot but the forward 6" or so should be fine.

Mesophilic:

--- Quote from: Pat B on September 07, 2019, 08:04:32 am ---I'm not familiar with that "fixer" but if it is a taper fitted into a tapered socket then yes, it will work with dissimilar woods. I have arrows that Art Butner made for me that are cane with maple foreshafts that are very strong. Not sure what glue Art used, maybe super glue, maybe TBIII but they are very strong. I don't think I'd use it near the center of the shaft because that is where most of the bend is when the arrow is shot but the forward 6" or so should be fine.

--- End quote ---

It is a tapered socket type joint.  Thanks, this was the info I was looking for.  I'll most likely use West Systems G Flex epoxy.

Pat B:
A glue that doesn't cure instantly is probably a good idea so you can be sure everything lines up.

artcher1:
I had problems using the two part epoxy on my foots. A hard hit on a rock would break the bond of the epoxy. That was on the wing type foot though. Never tried the epoxy on the socket type. For the socket type foot I used the thin super glue. It takes heat well for re-aligning if need be. For the two of four wing foot I like the polyurethane glue like the Gorilla Grip glue. It'll take a lot of heat if re-aligning is needed.

Just me, but I like to keep the joint at least no further that the back of the bow's shelf when drawn for safety's sake...…….Art

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