Main Discussion Area > Arrows
Arrow-fix for foreshafting?
TSA:
personally, i have only looked at the reparrow. and i prefer the main shaft being tapered the same direction as the taper for the point.
If there was a failure- i think that would be safer.
but surely it cant make a difference with either tool, each piece being the same , for all intents and purposes.
Just my 0.02c
Hawkdancer:
Any sort of break down range is no problem! Any break before the arrow clears the bow is real trouble! I would think you can cut either way with either too, it depends on which piece you taper, and which piece you socket! The tool doesn't care! But I am no great arrow maker.
Hawkdancer
bownarra:
I wouldn't bother with those tools. Sure it may be strong enough but.....a 4 inch scarf joint is much stronger and can be done with a very simple jig and a sharp fine toothed handsaw. It will take you less than 5 minutes to foot a shaft like this.
Mount a block of wood 2x2x6 inches or so on a board for stability.
Drill a hole, shaft diameter, through it along the length.
Mark out a line that will travel 4 inches along the length of the hole. Make a cut along that line, deep enough to just go through the hole.
Now push your shaft through the hole. Cut the shaft using the initial cut in the 2x2 as a guide. You will get a nice neat cut along the shaft.
Do the same with your footing material.
Now simply glue them up using something slow setting. Use a thin strip of innertube or a good strong elastic band to wrap the joint until the glue is set.
This is the method I would use to foot a shaft with hardwood if I didn't want to do a traditional 2, 3, or 4 footed splice. Of course it also works very well to fix shafts. It can be used on any part of the shaft for a fix.
The quick setting epoxies are junk always use the slow setting 24 hour stuff if you are just getting small tubes. TB3 will work well.
Hawkdancer:
Sounds like a simple rig, but we "geniuses" are always overthinking the problem! (lol). Got any pics of your jig? Thanks.
Hawkdancer
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