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Bare shaft tuning

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DC:
It didn't matter if they were over or under. If they hit the target at too much of an angle they broke.

"hmmmm, if the arrow is overspined at full draw, wouldnt it be way more overspined at half draw? of course it wont hit quite as hard."
So if you shoot at half draw it's always going to act stiffer? If the spine is too low, at half draw it will look good? So if I start at half draw and it shows underspined I should throw it away as it will always be underspined. If it shows overspined next time pull it further and it should get a little better. And like you say, if it's overspined it will be way overspined but it may survive.
Maybe I'll try again. I'll start with a real low draw so the arrow survives no matter what and work my way up until it starts to show it's true colours. If I do one arrow at a time it should only take a few shots to get them to the point where I can do normal bareshafting. Thanks Willie

TSA:
even though i am a staunch advocate for bareshafting, i do find myself drifting away from it.
i am almost inclined to say- get as close as you can, based on the charts and personal experience.
 fletch up 6 shafts, 3 with broadheads 3 with field points.
 and try group tuning- its a very effective method if you are reasonably close to start with.
what got me thinking this way, many years ago i was shooting shafts that were 15# too weak in spine( lack of knowledge!!)
and my field point's grouped well, they flew well- and i put broadheads on and took deer with them. one day i decided to practice with the BH's and they all grouped consistently to the side- both groups were good- but just two distinct groups.
so now i broadhead tune, and if you dont hunt just get some vented 3 blades, they will fly well and less likely to plane while your setup is not perfect.
 and i was doing this all at about 15 to 18 yards

willie:
Hey Wayne,

glad you posted that. It reminds me of another method that may help DC.

If you shoot through a paper target placed at least an arrowlength before the target, you can observe a keyhole type tear in the paper that may give you some indication of nock left/right/up/down. might have to chalk the tip with some collored chalk to mark where the tip went through. of course, a very soft target behind can prevent breakage.

DC:
Wayne, that sounds great but you have to be able to shoot a group first ;D ;D
Willie, I tried paper training a few years back but I made the paper holding frame too small. Never got back to it. Might try that again too.

Knoll:
Decent form is prerequisite for paper or bareshaft tuning. Imo, your mostly bad experience with bareshaft tuning and your comment about challenges to shooting groups is indicative of form issues. Good luck!

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