Main Discussion Area > Bows
AZ Ironwood Bow
richgibula:
I have used an epoxy treatment that works on softer woods. I used it a lot on things like walking sticks made of yucca stems to improve their reliability and prevent unexpected cracking or deep scratches.
The ways it works is to mix up your favorite strong epoxy. I use West Systems or Pro Set which have a tensile strength in the range of 8000 to 11,000 psi. You mix it well, then you add enough acetone to make it thinner than water. How much this takes depends on the epoxy viscosity and temperature.
Rub the mixture into the wood until it does not absorb any more. Wipe down any access on the surface unless you want a glossy look later, but it might be irregular. It will take days to dry because the acetone first needs to evaporate from inside the wood, then the epoxy can gel. If you want to coat it later, do a light sanding to improve adhesion. Remember that this mixture is very flammable.
I am sure that this improves compression strength on a soft walking stick, but I have no idea what will actually happen on a very hard wood. I am sure there is some "case hardening" going on and there will be better scratch resistance since the coating penetrates deeper than a varnish. Of course, these is not a "primitive" solution to anything but it is a neat trick that has made my yucca walking sticks survive over a decade of use. (It took a long time to find ones that have the right thickness, length and nice looking curves and then apply leather grips.)
richgibula:
I have been looking for a handle wood and I found this piece of firewood that I got from family in Colorado. I am not sure what it is but it is most likely Russian Olive. The only other firewood out there was a pine. Any other ID ideas?
simk:
Looks very close to laburnum
richgibula:
Since this is a board and very hard, are there some recommended dimensions that would be best for a bow? I have made bows from 68" to 48" but not from a board. I am assuming I will use a strong backing.
Thanks for your help.
Hamish:
Dimensions??? I'd go around 1 &1/4" maybe 1&3/8" wide for a flatbow as you are dealing with an unknown quantity, in regard to chrysalling.
If it holds up you can always start to narrow the width rather than the belly whilst tillering.
Length, start at 68" if you have the length in your billets. You can always pike it later if necessary. Glue in around 2" of reflex with the backing.
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