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AZ Ironwood Bow
richgibula:
Another question is: what is the best taper? I was of the impression that softer woods will work best with the taper #1, that is, right at the end and the hardest woods should be the slowest taper (#3).
willie:
for a bow limb to bend evenly or to be stressed equally and not be overstressed or hinged at any point it must be tapered
tapered in width or tapered in thickness or some combination of both. changing the width taper only means you will have a different thickness taper to get the stress even. this principle is a mater of physics.
whether the wood is soft or hard, strong or weak, brittle or elastic all affect the thickness or width or limb length or draw length
ie a characteristic of materiel qualities
richgibula:
Thanks for the reply willie. I understand the physics and tillering concepts. I was thinking that there were recommendations based on the wood type. I have seen people make bows out of very soft wood but they would make wider and longer bow limbs to increase the mass to generate more recoil from the draw. I thought that there were reverse concepts for very hard woods.
I tried to review the pics of osage bows on this blog. Since that is a hard wood, I thought that the designs would have something in common with what I am trying to do. Unfortunately, most of the pics were removed and I was not able to see too many successful construction images.
richgibula:
I have. been reading around and wondering if, since it will be hard to follow a growth line, should I shoot for a wider bow rather than a more aggressive taper?
richgibula:
3500+ views and no more advice?
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