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Has anyone here made a deflex takedown sleeve?

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Kidder:
Simon has one on his website. Rather than angle the tubes he deflexed it at the handle. Here’s a link to his build.
https://primitive-bows.com/osage-take-down-hunting-bow-n0-78/

Aussie Yeoman:

--- Quote ---My only worry with that method  would be the potential wear on the wooden end that gets repeatedly inserted, then taken apart. I imagine it would be not as harsh with a fg wrap handle( never heard it mentioned as a problem with fg wrap handles, but the metal sleeves always seem to have, inner sleeves to prevent wear).
--- End quote ---

Yeah I'd worried about that too. I was wondering whether some micarta or phenolic shims on back and belly would alleviate that. I'd like to stay away from FG if I can - the thought of the dust gives me the heebie-jeebies.

I just did some CAD work. If I glue up a 66" stave with 4"reflex I'd need to angle a tube by -6.9 degrees from straight. For a 1" pipe, this means a pretty small wedge out of the belly side of the RHS. Not impossible though.


--- Quote ---Simon has one on his website. Rather than angle the tubes he deflexed it at the handle. Here’s a link to his build.
https://primitive-bows.com/osage-take-down-hunting-bow-n0-78/
--- End quote ---

That's a really nice build and accomplishes the design brief. Thanks for sharing! I'll add it to the list of candidate options. It would need some creative geometry to work the angle in. But, as is obvious from the tutorial, achievable.

I was thinking more about the marine hinge option. It occurred to me that potentially, the knuckles and barrel of the hinge could be a weak point. We could remove the weak point by just using a steel plate, bent or forged to shape and secured with threaded inserts. One on the back for sure, and potentially one on the belly if it were needed. But, I don't expect it would be needed, as most of the hinged options in TBB and modern glass bows don't seem to have them.


--- Quote ---I think I have met you at the  Wiseman's Ferry shoot back around 2007-10, we had a discussion about Native Australian bow woods, eucalypts and their tendency to sometimes chrysal even if the bow is perfectly made?If you are the same guy I remember you had excellent bowyering skills, blacksmithing/knifemaking skills and a sharp mind.
--- End quote ---

You're very generous with your compliments but I'm pretty sure we've only met online. At the very least, I've never made it to a Wiseman's Ferry shoot.  :( We'd have exchanged notes on Ozbow, PP and here. I think we have exchanged correspondence on Aussie woods' tendency to chrysal. The tree-split staves I've used have chrysalled despite working admirably. Funnily enough, I and my students have only ever had chrysals where there's a terrible hinge when making boo backed ironbark or spotted gum bows.

Hamish:
Yep, I have definitely talked with you on Ozbow, and I remember you came up with plenty of good ideas, especially regarding bow design.

Hinges are definitely a good idea for takedowns. They used to be available commercially in the States. None of them needed threaded inserts, but that doesn't mean its not a good idea, especially with your earlier proposed application. I think most guys on here could fashion a pretty decent hinge with hand tools, files and hacksaws, given lots of time and patience. A chunk of 4130 would be ideal(not cheap), heat treated to around 35-40Rockwell, for maximum toughness, but still workable with files etc. The other methods for takedowns discussed in the thread would be quicker to make.

I have two models that I have never used. One is a 3 piece articulation. The centre section is rectangular has 3 pronged finger joints on both ends, that interlock on either side with the securing plates. Small pins go through the joints on either side to create a hinge. The articulation can go into a deflex handle shape. This style could be made in with simple tools, and a file guide for accuracy.

The other one I have is a precision "Connexion" hinge, that has been done on a milling machine. A cnc mill could churn them out. Hard to explain, but it is in 2 separate halves that slide in together from the side in the L shaped position, but lock in when the hinge is folded flat into the shooting position. Really precisely made, can go into a slight deflex, or flat They were used on Robertson Stykbow longbows for a really long time, but the guy who makes the hinges must have retired, because they aren't available anymore. They come with titanium screws. Not sure if the hinge is stainless or titanium.

Aussie Yeoman:

--- Quote from: Hamish on May 15, 2024, 10:19:27 am ---
I have two models that I have never used. One is a 3 piece articulation. The centre section is rectangular has 3 pronged finger joints on both ends, that interlock on either side with the securing plates. Small pins go through the joints on either side to create a hinge. The articulation can go into a deflex handle shape. This style could be made in with simple tools, and a file guide for accuracy.


--- End quote ---

I'm sorry to say I don't quite follow. Could you do me a sketch? I'm sure that as soon as I see it I'll be all "oh yeah of course!" with a slap of the forehead.

Yeah I've managed to find only a precious few photos of the connexion hinge. I heard the screws were titanium because stainless screws would break. I think the hinges themselves were stainless though.

Hamish:
Yeoman, If you send me your email, or phone # via private message on PA, I can send photos, measurements. Total boomer when it comes to tech, posting photos on the internet :D

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