What Length for a Hickory Flatbow

[Terrier]

Hey fellers,

Here's an issue I've been cogitating on for a while, and would like some other opinions on...

I have a couple of folks in my circle that I want to build Hickory Flatbows for that have draw lengths of 22".  Both are adults, but they just aren't 'big' adults.

My understanding is that the general standard for a Hickory flatbow style is 67" long and is safe for a 28" DL @ 45 lbs.  If I'm building for a 22" DL at 35 lbs or so, what would you consider a minimum safe overall length?

Thanks in advance!

Jackson

[sleek]

I love building short bows and having friends like that would be so much fun to make bows for. Short bows have a potential longer ones dont in terms of efficiency. You can make a 22 inch draw bow thats in the mid 40s inch range. Most bows start taking set at the 22 mark so you can make some killer bows here. The key will be working limb area and string angle at the tips, which can be adjusted via recurves. 35 pound bows can be made to shoot very hard with the correct design. What type bow are you thinking and how wide are your staves?

[Jim Davis]

22" DL x 2 + 15% = about 51"

[Badger]

   I think I would go about 62" maybe 60". You have a good opportunity to avoid any set and a very smooth draw curve. The only short draw bows I built were also very short bows but I witnessed something one time that made a big impression on me. Larry Hatfield used a 70# glass longbow 67" long to break the 35# record. He just short drew a much heavier bow. On wood bows the ability to avoid set would be a huge advantage. Just build it about like a 50# bow but never draw it past 22"

[Terrier]

@Sleek

I'm still just getting started with bowmaking...  It hasn't been a year yet since I caught the bug, but I started to get the hang of tillering after about 9 bows.  A few abject failures along the way, but I'm up to 16 now, with a few shining moments.

I've had some success with a few Hickory flatbows, and churned out five 60-62" Osage Cherokee Hunting bows (simple D bows) that turned out nice.  Most of the Osage was gifted to me, but I've used most of it.  The Osage I found around my place had really tight growth rings, and was the source of some of the failures in my early attempts.

I recently cut several trees and stocked my basement with Elm, Ironwood (Hornbeam), Hophornbeam, Sycamore, Tree of Heaven, Hackberry and a beautiful 80' Hickory tree that'll yield 30+ staves.  I have one more big log to split. Most of the hickory is 6 1/2 or 7' long and split to about 4- 4 1/2", and pretty straight.  There's a little woodpecker damage to some of it, but most of the damage is deep enuf to work around and not be an issue.

The bows I had in mind to make are just regular Hickory Flatbows.  I want to keep practicing with that style for a bit to hone my skills and get better.  I'm not too keen on getting into recurved limbs just yet. I'm sure that'll get my attention soon enough, but I don't wanna get ahead of myself.  Still a rookie.

@Jim Davis

Thanks for the formula!  That should come in handy.


@Badger

I had lower 60's in the back of my mind, so thanks for that info...  I still have to physically check both people to verify their real draw length and not rely on a measurement from their chest to fingertips.  My own draw length is 1.5" shorter than that kind of measurement.

[RyanY]

I generally recommend the working limbs be at least 1-2” longer than the draw just for a smoother draw and margin of safety. So 24” x 2 plus an 8” handle and fades section would be around 56”. Nothing wrong with going longer either.

[superdav95]

I generally recommend the working limbs be at least 1-2” longer than the draw just for a smoother draw and margin of safety. So 24” x 2 plus an 8” handle and fades section would be around 56”. Nothing wrong with going longer either.

I agree.  The margin of safety is always good idea for new shooters.   

I’ve also noticed with him says too with shooters with short draws shooting my longer heavier poundage bows vs bows in their draw range.  My slightly longer heavier poundage bows pulled to reduced draw length and thereby weight shot arrows just as fast or in some cases faster.  Tested with chrono.   I realize a lot of other factors come into it here too like design and and materials and such but was also surprised of the outcome.  The shooters remarked it felt snappier too.  Someone with a computer program I’m sure could likely explain exactly what’s going on here I bet.   

[Jim Davis]

On further reflection, I think my formula was for ELBs... .

[Pappy]

I like as a minimum double the draw and add the un moving parts/handle and fads. 
 Pappy

[Eric Krewson]

My late wife was 5'3" tall and drew 22", I made her bows 60" long NTN, smooth drawing, long lasting, very little set, her osage bows really spit out her 30-35# spine 5/16th 26" arrows.

I could see no reason to push the limits when I was making bows for other folk, when I was selling them, I replaced any that failed no questions asked, for that reason I over build my bows just a little so they would hold up.

When you make a bow for a beginner it is likely that they will hand the bow to 6'6" cousin Elbert whose knuckles drag the ground and he will imediately draw it back to 32" before you can stop him.   I have replaced several bows that I suspect had been passed around for others to shoot and were damaged in the  process.