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Rectangular cross-sections with a stiff handles are relatively new inventions (1930:s?). Almost no primitive bows had this at least the ones I know, but semicircle or lenticular cross-section, narrowed AND working handle- Ishi style, sometimes tapering on belly and back.
Thickest part of limbs at where fades start 1/2" tapering gently to tips ?
Quote from: Aksel on August 28, 2025, 04:24:39 pmRectangular cross-sections with a stiff handles are relatively new inventions (1930:s?). Almost no primitive bows had this at least the ones I know, but semicircle or lenticular cross-section, narrowed AND working handle- Ishi style, sometimes tapering on belly and back.Aksel, while you are correct that lenticular etc. is more common, one of the earliest bows found in the Americas had a quite retangular crossection and a stffler handle.third pic down, pamunkey bow on righthttp://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,68908.msg967219.html#msg967219Quote from: legend on August 28, 2025, 09:50:25 amThickest part of limbs at where fades start 1/2" tapering gently to tips ?as mentioned earlier, if your thickness taper is more pronounced under the straight width section and slighter in the tapered width section, this will keep the stresses spread out more evenly.
A real pyramid bow tapers only in width but not in thickness. It is difficult to build a pyramid bow with a stave because of the arched back so my understanding is a stave built pyramid bow would be a semi-pyramid bow. On the American longbows I've built the limbs are parallel out anywhere from 4" to 8" then tapering to the tips. A bow with parallel limbs most of the way out before tapering to the tips is considered an overbuilt bow. Any of these styles make good, durable bows and wood choice for me would determine which way to go. We all find ways to build bows that work best for us. If it works for you then it is the best. Are you confusing the back of the bow for the belly. The back of the bow, the side that faces the target should consist of one continuous growth ring. That is where the strength of a wood bow is. The belly, the side that faces the archer can and should be tapered, from the handle to the tip. That is tillering, allowing the limbs to bend evenly and together as you draw the bow. What wood will you be using for your bow? will it be a stave type selfbow, a board selfbow or a backed bow?
or does it not really matter