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Opinions on Osage bow design and tillering for 3 under/split finger

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bentstick54:
So I started my bow building journey off a design from the Osage Flat Bow chapter by Ron Hardcastle in the Bowyers Bible 1. Ive played with width dimensions a bit, went to a straight taper from fades to tips, and have been happy with most of the Bowsite have made. I have had a few take 1/2” of set, some up to 1-1/2”, and anywhere in between.
My bows are symmetrical, with 4” handle, either 2” or 3” fades, with the center of balance at the center of the handle, which puts the arrow at 2” above center. When I tiller I try to keep a neutral tiller as close as I can the full length of the limb, measuring at even intervals. This works for me, my shooting form, shooting split finger.

My question is, how much difference would there likely be shooting 3 under keeping the tiller the same?

bentstick54:
Blue line is bow center, green line is arrow location, red lines are where measurements are taken.

Pat B:
So far your bow looks pretty good. I make my bows the same as you, symmetrical. I don't shoot 3 under so as far as that goes you might be able to just change your nocking point to deal with that.

bentstick54:
Pat, not looking at that individual bow in particular, just used it as an example to help verify measuring locations. I know guys that obsess over tiller adjustment on modern material bows. Am wondering how much it might affect a selfbow, and perhaps how much it would possibly change the tiller as time goes by.

Pat B:
As long as the stave is straight without twists or hoop-ti-doos those measuring points should work measuring from the belly to the string. Or you could draw the outline on the back board and check both limbs on that.

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