Bamboo/Yew/Maple/IPE/Horn 50# @ 28"

[simk]

Here's a few pics of my latest bow (the one I posted the fdc already).
On this one I tried something new for the takedown connection: Because I always felt that these could show signs of wear over time on the wooden male I was thinking of a remedy for a while now. Tuomo then also mentioned problems with the wood shrinking/expanding with changes in humidity across the seasons and another good reason. So why not covering the male with carbon I thought. And it works...and feels very solid. Hope my customer - which will shoot that bow a lot - will stay happy for a long time!
Have a nice day everybody!

[simk]

...

[sleek]

Good grief. You are in a completely different category of bowyer, making bows that look like that is mind blowing

[superdav95]

Wow.  Very nice indeed.  Nice glue lines too. 

[Badger]

 Beautiful!

[Bob Barnes]

Incredible looking bow.     I have made several 2-piece bows using a joint like that, and I don't see how you left so little wood on the back side of the socket.  Did you build up the sleeve under the leather?  Also, with so many laminations, how thin is the horn?  It's crazy nice and looks like a great hunting bow.

[medicinewheel]

Fantastic!

[Pat B]

That's a real beauty. Well done. 

[wooddamon1]

Beautiful bow.

[simk]

Well Bob, you have a nice bow there! Great work! Similar design as mine..... Is this a glassbow with snakeskins?

I'm not sure what you mean by "wood on the back side of the socket"? Do you mean the bows back? I found a few pics from the build (yeah my customers are always entertained with a few pics during the build). In general it needs less material for the sleeve than you might think - using carbon cloth takes even less. I once had a sleeve cracking and moving a little from the backside....I then wrapped it again with very little carbon cloth and it held together nicley. I'm providing a pic of a industrial bow...and as you can see you dont need a big male too if the fit is tight- you can cut yours in a less steep angle next time.

thanks for the compliments guys! I currently have no idea on how to make a build even more sophisticated and complicated....
 

[Bob Barnes]

"Well Bob, you have a nice bow there! Great work! Similar design as mine..... Is this a glassbow with snakeskins?"

Thank you.  It is bamboo backed walnut core and osage belly... no glass.  Yes, I was referring to the back of the bow at the grip.  It appears that you just sanded the bamboo down slightly before adding the carbon wrap.  That is probably the best and strongest way.  Thank you for the pictures.

[bjrogg]

Very nice work Simk. I’m guessing it shoots every bit as good as it looks.

Bjrogg

[simk]

thanks BJ

Bob: You got a gem there for sure. high-end-lamination work! did you present this bow on the forum? did I miss that one? A  few more additional pics please  BOM candidate for sure.
On the back of the bow you can fade the sleeve towards the end to get a smooth transistion to the wood - only in the middle of the grip it must be pretty strong and thicker. its different on the bellyside: here you need the material where the sleeve ends.

and: for anyone that might wanna try the carbon fibres - its very abrasive and will destroy tools within minutes. So either use very cheap disposable rasps or buy expensive wolfram-carbide tools to work it. its much worse than glass-fiber stuff.

[Bob Barnes]

simk~ thank you.  I made this bow about 25 years ago and the plans for the 2-piece grip came out of a 1960s Popular Mechanics magazine.  Carbon fiber was not a choice for me.  All I had was fiberglass cloth and resin or rawhide and sinew.  I only cut it in half so I could carry it on a motorcycle back in my younger days.   

What glue do you use for laminating?