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Roger:
I didn't see a proper place to post this other than here. Maybe some of us can give insite to some up and comming bowyers that can save them some frustration and possibly money.
Here are some things I've picked up or discovered that have helped me in the crafting of bows:

1) Use a geometric grid of some kind behind your tiller set-up. It will give instant feedback at a glance as to how the bow is bending.( no tiller sticks...LOL)
2) Always make your overall dimensions slightly larger than you want if using power tools and reduce slowly by hand. You'll be glad you did if a tool slips or you make a boo-boo.
3) If your rasps are loading up during use...chalk them and brush with a brass brush.
4) If you use a belt sander...spend the coin and get a dressing/cleaning stick. They extend the life of your sanding belts by two fold.
5) Sanding...I have found that if you use moderate pressure and let the sandpaper do the work, it will go smoother and last longer. Also step down your paper grits gradually. Don't try to remove tool marks with 200 grit paper. It WILL work but you'll use twice as much and rub twice as long.
6) Removing heavy tool marks...A flat bastard mill file will quickly take those guys down and leave a nice surface to sand.
7) When preparing/stitching leather grips. Cut your leather and fold over and glue the top and bottom for a nice rolled edge. Lay artificial sinew or dental floss inside the fold when you glue them down with the excess hanging out of the edges. When you install, just bring up the tags and tie them to line up the top and bottom edges for a neat fit with no holes.
8) Tip overlays...If you bevel the inboard contact edge before installing you won't gouge the mating surface when sanding after application.
9) Backings... make your backings SLIGHTLY concave with your gooseneck scraper. This will insure a tight seam line at the edges when you apply clamping pressure.

 These tips may not be for everyone and is just one way of doing things...I hope this can be of help to someone trying to make a bow.... ;D ;D

Lets get some input from you guru's...I always learn something.

Roger

Pat B:
Thanks Roger. This is a good post.


...If you find yourself getting agrivated or your mind is wandering, put your tools down and go do something else. Come back when you can concentrate on what you're doing.
...save all your mistakes. As you learn more about building bows these "orphans" are a wealth of knowledge.       Pat

Badger:
Roger, I would pretty much put you in the category of very knowledeable guys, But I have a question about the backing and concaving, is this mainly when clamps are used or do you also use this method with innertubes, also are you using urac type glues or tightbonds? very good post!  Steve

Roger:
Steve,
I mostly use Urac for glue ups. On the last one however I used TB with identical prep to the backing. The results have been good so far.
As far as clamps, I use both depending on the application. For straight reflex I just use clamps. For D/R designs, I use a combo of both. I split the bike tubes a wrap "mummy" style, using clamps to secure the blank to the form.
It takes very little scraping to achieve the desired results.

R

duffontap:
I think one of the most important things a bowyer can do is buy a good wood working vise that will hold a stave still and allow the use of both hands.  With a good vise, you will build more, better bows.

Here's an inexpensive 10" vise that would get the job done:

http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/attributeSearch.do


                 J. D. Duff

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